The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeingPacker, Thomas
Science
The Dyer's Guide: Being a compendium of the art of dyeing linen, cotton, silk, wool, muslin, dresses, furniture, &c. &c.; with the method of scouring wool, bleaching cotton, &c., and directions for ungumming silk, and for whitening and sulphuring silk and wool; and also an introductory epitome of the leading facts in chemistry, as connected with the art of dyeing
Packer, Thomas
Dyes and dyeing; Textile fabrics
This is to be made the same as for green; it need not be neutralized as
for cotton. For _blue_, however, _twelve_ ounces of indigo are necessary
to four pounds of sulphuric acid. In dyeing the heat must be much under
boiling, or the using of a high heat would give the blue a green tinge.
This blue colour is very bright, yet not fast, but no preparation is of
any advantage to either its fastness or brightness. Some put alum and
tartar, and some use one, and some the other, to prevent a green cast:
if, however, the wool be fine, white, and worked _much below_ the boiling
point of heat, it will not turn green although neither be used.
_To dye wool_ ORANGE, GOLD COLOUR, _&c._
The processes of crimson, scarlet, and of yellow united produce the
various shades of these colours, _leaving archil out_. See _buff, peach,
&c. on wool_.
_To dye wool_ BLACK.
Black includes a prodigious number of shades, beginning from the lightest
grey or pearl colour to the most intense shade of black. On account of
these shades it is classed by dyers among their chief or primitive
colours[8]; for the greater number of browns, of whatsoever shade they
be, are finished in the same dye as would dye white wool a grey more or
less dark. This operation is called _browning_. The best superfine black
should have a full ground of _mazarine blue_ previously to being finished
black.
A great quantity of cloth and other articles have, however, no indigo
ground, but a ground of logwood, or of logwood and alder-bark, or of
logwood and old fustic, or of logwood, alder-bark, and old fustic, all
boiled together, and sometimes they are boiled in a decoction of oak
saw-dust.
Indigo for the ground is the richest drug, in carbon, that is or can be
used; logwood is next to it: too much logwood, however, whether indigo be
used with it or not, gives the black a foxy hue; alder-bark and old
fustic modify this effect, and are used in small quantities for this
purpose, because the dye from these, as well as that from oak saw-dust,
will produce a soot or dead black.
A _jet_ black is required full and rich, therefore old fustic and oak
saw-dust are only used to modify the richness of the ground as it regards
the blue, whether of indigo or of logwood; for logwood especially,
without these, if overcome with sumach and sulphate of iron only, would
be foxy, purplish, or have a reddish cast.
So many different grounds being used for blacks, and every dyer thinking
his own the best, is the occasion of such a great variety of hues, even
of black, being found in the market. It is, therefore, thought
unnecessary to describe the various methods of dyeing black which are
pursued by different dyers, and which would be, in fact, impossible. But
the author has done what is of much greater importance to the student,
who, after a little practice, let him have a pattern of black to dye,
will know how to do it, let who may have dyed it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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