A few years since, behind some ancient panelling at Haddon Hall, Derbyshire, was discovered a washing bill (with other things appertaining to the 16th and 17th centuries) which gives us a good idea of the various articles of dress then worn. Reference is made to the _ruff_, which is too well known to need description; to _bandes_ made of linen and cambric, from which those now used by the clergy took their origin, and from which we derive the modern word bandbox. There were three kinds--some that stood upright, others were allowed to lie flat upon the shoulders, as shown in the drawings of Charles I. and II., and those which were embroidered and trimmed with lace. The _shirt_ applied to the under-garment of both sexes, and the half-shirt referred to the stomacher over which the dress was laced. _Boot hose_ were made of a variety of materials, and were occasionally called nether stocks; _socks_ were sometimes put over them; and _tops_ were of Holland linen or lace, and formed the lining of the full hanging boots of the Cavaliers. [Illustration: CHARLES I.] During the Civil War the dress worn by the King's adherents, consisted of a doublet of silk or satin with loose sleeves, slashed up the front; the collar was generally of point lace, and a short cloak rested carelessly on one shoulder. The hat was a broad-brimmed beaver with a plume of feathers, and trunk hose gave way to breeches. The Roundheads or Republican Party went to the opposite extreme. They cut their hair close, avoided lace and jewels, had plain linen or cloth suits of a grey or brown tint, with a hat somewhat resembling the modern chimney pot. [Illustration: CHARLES II. AND HIS QUEEN (1662).] [Illustration: WILLIAM III. (1694)] [Illustration: GENTLEMAN AND LADY OF 18TH CENTURY.] * * * * * About this period we also hear of the waistcoat, which was cut high at the neck, and was made with sleeves. Neckcloths and cravats of Brussels and Flanders lace were tied in a knot under the chin, and had square ends. Another peculiar feature of masculine costume towards the end of the 17th century consisted of petticoat breeches with drooping lace ruffles, such as adorn the nether limbs of Charles II. Patches and perukes were also adopted, and the former fashion, a revival of an old Roman custom, had political significance according to where they were placed on the face, and were bitterly ridiculed by numerous satirical writers. "I know many young gentlemen," says Middleton, in one of his plays, "who wear longer hair than their mistresses." The beard was worn in different ways, but the most usual shape was what Beaumont and Fletcher, in their "Queen of Corinth," call the T beard, consisting of a moustache and imperial:-- "His beard, Which now he put i' the form of a T, The Roman T; your T beard is the fashion, And two-fold doth express the enamoured courtier." Shakespeare also tells us, it was often dyed different colours.