The French Revolution affected masculine costume; and in 1789 were
introduced into this country the muslin cravat, in which the chin was
partially concealed, stand-up collars, Hessian boots, and round hats of
beaver. Scarlet coats were much in vogue about 1784, and an anecdote in
"The Life of Sir Astley Cooper" represents him as returning from a
dancing academy in a scarlet coat, a three-cocked hat, a black glazed
stock, nankeen knee-breeches, and silk stockings. This may be regarded
as the ordinary costume of a gentleman at that period.
Wigs had begun to go out of fashion as early as 1763, in which year the
wigmakers petitioned King George III. to support the trade by his
example. "The hair," says Malcolm, "was dressed high on the head,
whitened with powder, and alternately plaited and turned up or queued
behind." When the hair powder tax--one guinea per annum--was enforced in
1795, thousands of heads reverted to their natural colour.
Some brilliant fancy dress balls (with a view to encouraging home trade)
have taken place during the Victorian era. Of the first, which was given
by the Queen and Prince Consort at Buckingham Palace in 1842, a
permanent memorial exists in two handsome volumes compiled by J. R.
Planché, containing carefully coloured illustrations of the various
dresses, and autograph portraits of the wearers. They form an invaluable
book of reference for those desiring accurate representations of the
costume of the period of Edward III. (1327-1377). A special feature of
this ball was a series of costume quadrilles, arranged by ladies of the
Court and others of high rank. They were danced in the following
order:--
French quadrille, led by H. R. H. the Duchess of Cambridge.
Spanish quadrille, led by the Duchess of Buccleuch.
German quadrille, led by the Duchess of Sutherland.
Crusaders' quadrille, led by the Marchioness of Londonderry.
Waverley quadrille, led by the Countess de la Warr.
Scotch quadrille, led by the Duchess of Buccleuch.
Cossack quadrille, led by Baroness Bremon.
Greek quadrille, led by the Duchess of Leinster.
[Illustration: PRINCE ALBERT AS EDWARD III.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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