I am lying on my back in the sunshine, close to the edge of a great
broken precipice, beside a clambering Cornish fishing village. In front
of me is the sea, bluer than I have seen it since last I lay in like
fashion a few months ago on the schistose slopes of the Maurettes at
Hyères, and looked away across the plain to the unrippled Mediterranean
and the Stoechades of the old Phocæan merchant-men. On either hand rise
dark cliffs of hornblende and serpentine, weathered above by wind and
rain, and smoothed below by the ceaseless dashing of the winter waves.
Up to the limit of the breakers the hard rock is polished like Egyptian
syenite; but beyond that point it is fissured by disintegration and
richly covered with a dappled coat of grey and yellow lichen. The slow
action of the water, always beating against the solid wall of
crystalline rock, has eaten out a thousand such little bays all along
this coast, each bounded by long headlands, whose points have been worn
into fantastic pinnacles, or severed from the main mass as precipitous
islets, the favourite resting-place of gulls and cormorants. No grander
coast scenery can be found anywhere in the southern half of Great
Britain.
Yet when I turn inland I see that all this beauty has been produced by
the mere interaction of the sea and the barren moors of the interior.
Nothing could be flatter or more desolate than the country whose
seaward escarpment gives rise to these romantic coves and pyramidal
rocky islets. It stretches away for miles in a level upland waste, only
redeemed from complete barrenness by the low straggling bushes of the
dwarf furze, whose golden blossom is now interspersed with purple
patches of ling or the paler pink flowers of the Cornish heath. Here,
then, I can see beauty in nature actually beginning to be. I can trace
the origin of all these little bays from small rills which have worn
themselves gorge-like valleys through the hard igneous rock, or else
from fissures finally giving rise to sea-caves, like the one into which
I rowed this morning for my early swim. The waves penetrate for a
couple of hundred yards into the bowels of the rock, hemmed in by walls
and roof of dark serpentine, with its interlacing veins of green and
red bearing witness still to its once molten condition; and at length
in most cases they produce a blow-hole at the top, communicating with
the open air above, either because the fissure there crops up to the
surface, or else through the agency of percolation. At last, the roof
falls in; the boulders are carried away by the waves; and we get a long
and narrow cove, still bounded on either side by tall cliffs, whose
summits the air and rainfall slowly wear away into jagged and exquisite
shapes. Yet in all this we see nothing but the natural play of cause
and effect; we attribute the beauty of the scene merely to the
accidental result of inevitable laws; we feel no necessity for calling
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