The Gourmet's Guide to LondonNewnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
General
The Gourmet's Guide to London
Newnham-Davis, Lieut.-Col. (Nathaniel)
Restaurants -- England -- London -- Guidebooks
The little waitress totalled up my bill on the card that the
commissionaire at the door had given me, and I was making my way to
the pay-desk when I saw in a corner by the book-stall a lady engaged
in opening letters; and, thinking that this must be Mrs Eustace Miles,
I asked her if such was the case, and when she said "Yes," introduced
myself. She welcomed me to the restaurant, explained that her husband
was away playing a championship game at tennis, and said how sorry she
was that she had not met me before I lunched, as she would have liked
to suggest to me the dishes that best suit anyone making their first
essay on non-flesh foods. I told her, however, that I had wished to
make my first attack just as any other meat-eating member of the public
would do, and I was very glad to be able to compliment her on the
cook's soup and the shortbread. I had bought at the book-stall the May
number of _Healthward Ho!_ and had carried off from the dinner-table
a sheaf of leaflets giving information concerning the restaurant and
the _salons_, and in addition to these Mrs Miles gave me a leaflet
describing the exhibit that the then chef of the restaurant, Mr Blatch,
N.C.A., sent to the Food and Cookery Exhibition in 1910, and which
won a gold medal there, and an account of the _déjeuner_ at which M.
Escoffier and the editor of _Food and Cookery_ and _The Catering World_
were present, and which was described by the latter in glowing terms,
"excellent," "delightful" and "delicious" being adjectives used for
every course. This was the menu of the feast:
Milk Cheese and Celery Mayonnaise.
Salsify and Barley Cream Soup.
Cashew Nut Timbale and Cranberry Sauce.
Nut and Vegetable en Casserole.
Vegetables (Conservatively Cooked).
Jamaican Fruit Salad.
Devilled Compacto.
It was recorded that M. Escoffier very much enjoyed the devilled
Compacto, and praised the work of the chef who had prepared the
_hors d'œuvre_ and the entrées. As, however, since the date of this
_déjeuner_, which was in March 1910, M. Escoffier has given the world
his famous _Dodine_, and his not less famous _Poularde Poincaré_, he
was evidently not weaned from the errors of flesh-eating by his visit
to the Eustace Miles Restaurant, nor shall I be lured away by any
stuffed vegetable marrow from creamy salmon and plump quails.
But I shall say no word to dissuade old "Rats" from going to dine at
the Eustace Miles Restaurant, for I am quite sure that what he will eat
there will certainly do him no harm, and if he chooses F.U. dishes may
probably do him a lot of good, but I should like to be present when the
old man first looks down the green and red bill of fare of the day and
finds himself faced by all the strange new dishes, for his remarks will
be worthy of the occasion.
XIII
THE PRINCES' RESTAURANT
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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