The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
History
The Great Frozen Sea: A Personal Narrative of the Voyage of the "Alert"
Markham, Albert Hastings, Sir
Alert (Sloop : 1856-1895); Arctic regions; Nares, George S. (George Strong), 1831-1915
Cape Fraser is a bold promontory some thousand feet in height,
terminating in a short projecting point of land about two hundred feet
above the level of the sea. Above the talus appeared numerous caves in
the cliffs, a peculiarity noticed for the first time, and the summit was
studded with irregularities that, to an imaginative mind, might be
perverted into gigantic beings, animals, or castellated towers. On one
of these ridges was a heap of stones supposed to represent the "Twelve
Apostles," and was so marked on the chart; but as we could never
distinguish more than half the number at one time from any point of
bearing, it was generally supposed on board that they adhered to true
man-of-war regulations, and only appeared in their "watch on deck," half
the number belonging of course to the watch below!
At 10 P.M., being again temporarily stopped, the ships were secured in a
little harbour called Maury Bay. During our detention in the vicinity of
Cape Fraser, we were able to confirm the observations made by Dr.
Bessels of the "Polaris," relative to the meeting of two tides at or
about this point. This fact materially strengthens the argument in
favour of the insularity of Greenland, for it has been deduced from a
series of tidal observations obtained by us that the tide to the
northward of Cape Fraser--that is, the tide in Kennedy and Robeson
Channels--is undoubtedly the same as the North Atlantic one, and
therefore flows along the northern coast of Greenland.
Contrary to what might generally be expected, we did not encounter any
very great accumulation of broken up ice in consequence of the meeting
of these two tides: not more than would be caused by the fact of the
channel decreasing in size to the northward at this point, and therefore
offering greater obstruction to the ice whilst drifting northward, but
facilitating its general drift, which is to the southward.
From the summit of Cape John Barrow, which forms one extreme of the
little bay in which we were secured, we obtained a good view, and one
which delighted and gladdened our hearts.
Northwards we could see as far as Cape L. von Buch; between us leads of
water, although covered with much loose ice. To the eastward we could
plainly distinguish Cape Constitution, with a large sheet of water along
its base; but to get to it we should have had to penetrate a large
expanse of pack. This pool of water was in all probability similar to
one seen by Morton in the same place in 1855, and reported by him as an
"open Polar sea," on which many imaginative theories have been based!
Our return to the ship was not accomplished without much difficulty, in
consequence of our little harbour of refuge having filled with drifting
ice, during the time we were on shore, which beset our boat. We were
therefore compelled to haul and drag it over and through innumerable
fragments of ice, reaching the ship wet and fatigued, but delighted with
the intelligence we possessed and the prospect of pushing on.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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