The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to YorkHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: London to York
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
Potter’s Bar marks where the counties of Middlesex and Hertford join. It
is not a place of delirious delights, consisting of stuccoed villas
fondly supposed to be Italian, and unfinished roads, and streets in a
state of suspended animation. Until 1897, when it was pulled down, an
old toll-house, the last in a long succession of toll-houses and
toll-bars which had stood here from the earliest times and had given
Potter’s Bar its name, occupied the fork of the roads at the north end of
the village, commanding the high-road and the road on the right to
Northaw. [Picture: Old Toll-House, Potter’s Bar] It was not a beautiful
building, but it hinted of old times, and its disappearance is to be
regretted. It was taken down because already, in the first twelve months
of the new automobile era a car had dashed into it and done most of any
demolition necessary. A War Memorial now stands on the site. Between
this and Hatfield the road goes in undulating fashion, with the Great
Northern Railway on the left hand nearly all the way, but chiefly
downhill. Down Little Heath Hill and then half-way up the succeeding
incline we come to a cutting which affords a newer and easier road than
the hilly route to the left. [Picture: Ganwick Corner] Where this joins
the old road again, nearly two miles onward, at Bell Bar, stands the
pretty “Swan” inn. The “bar” has, of course, long since disappeared.
Immediately ahead is Hatfield Park, stretching away for over three miles.
Through the park, by where the present south lodge stands, the highway
used to run in former times, and brought wayfarers between the wind and
the nobility of the Cecils. Accordingly the road was diverted at the
instance of the then Lord Salisbury, and the public no longer offend him,
his heirs, executors, or assigns. And now, for ever and a day, those who
use the road between Potter’s Bar and Hatfield village must go an extra
half mile. This is indeed a free and happy country.
[Picture: Bell Bar]
Hatfield village touches the extremity of wretchedness, just as Hatfield
House marks the apogee of late feudal splendour. And yet, amid its
tumbledown hovels there are quaintly beautiful old-gabled cottages with
bowed and broken-backed red-tiled roofs, delightful to the artistic eye,
if from the builder’s and decorator’s point of view sadly out of repair.
Motor repair-shops and garages, with their squalid advertisements, have
helped to ruin Hatfield, and the railway does its share, running closely
to the main road, and, with the station directly opposite the highly
elaborate modern wrought-iron gates that lead to Hatfield House,
detracting not a little from that state of dignified seclusion by which,
as we have just seen, a former Marquis of Salisbury set such store. Let
us hope his pale ghost does not revisit his old home. If it does, it
must be sorely vexed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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