The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
_Another way to Case-Harden._—Collect such articles of animal origin as
cows’ horns, or hoofs of either cows or horses, or leather trimmings
from about the shoe-shops, or old cast off boots or shoes, and burn
them until sufficiently charred to admit of being easily pounded into
a powder. Having finished up the article to be hardened, ready for the
final polish, place it in an iron box, and surround it completely on all
sides by a packing of the powder. Pour into the box, until the powder is
made moist, a saturated solution of common salt in urine. Next close the
box and seal it until airtight, with wet and well-worked clay, then put
it into the furnace and blow up gradually until heated to a cherry red.
Don’t run the heat any higher, but hold it at that about five minutes,
then take out and plunge at once into the slack-tub.
By this means a piece of soft malleable iron is rendered as hard as
hardened steel. Some workmen contend that the salt solution is of no
particular importance—that just as good results will come of packing in
the animal charcoal alone. The iron box, though very convenient when a
good deal of case-hardening is to be done, is not an absolute necessity.
If the article, surrounded by the animal charcoal, is incased in a ball
of stiff and well-worked clay, and then exposed to the proper heat and
slacking, the results will be the same as if heated in an iron box.
_Another Formula._—In earlier times, when guns were more in use than
either agricultural or mechanical implements, and there was a gunsmith’s
shop at almost every cross-road, they had a way of case-hardening
that was much more simple than either of the foregoing, and yet quite
effectual. Scraps of old leather, as cut from old boots or shoes, were
tightly wrapped and tied around the piece of iron to be made hard, to the
extent of several thicknesses. Around this was placed a layer of sand
and salt in equal proportions, to the thickness of half an inch. The
sand and salt was dampened with water to make it stick together. A layer
of plastic clay, an inch in thickness, was worked around the whole, and
the ball, so made, was exposed to heat at about the cherry-red degree,
sufficiently long to consume the leather, when it was dropped suddenly
into the slack-tub.
_Still Another Formula._—Make a powder of pulverized prussiate of potash,
sal-ammoniac and saltpetre in equal parts. Heat the iron to cherry-red
and sprinkle thoroughly on all sides with the powder, then immediately
plunge into the slack-tub.
Some smiths contend that the pulverized prussiate of potash, used in the
same way, is entirely effectual without the other ingredients.
_To Chill Cast Iron._—Make a powder by pulverizing together, salt, 2
lbs.; saltpetre, ½ lb.; alum, ½ lb.; ammonia, 4 ozs., and salts of
tartar, 4 ozs. Heat the iron to cherry-red, sprinkle thoroughly with the
powder and then plunge into cold water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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