The Heart of ScotlandMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
The Heart of Scotland
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Perthshire (Scotland) -- Description and travel
The successful claimant gained the old earldom, the marquisate becoming
extinct, but it was revived in the person of his son, who married a
daughter of the house of Montrose, hereditary enemy of his race. He now
has reigned for a generation at Taymouth Castle, one of the noblest
Scottish seats, among finely planted grounds and gardens, where, but for
the mountain background, one would hardly believe oneself in the
Highlands. The neat model village of Kenmore also suggests anything but
a Highland clachan. Some critics, indeed, have found fault with the
glories of Taymouth as out of keeping--“an artificial and drilled scene
that seems to have been modelled in a toyshop and transplanted hither by
a chain and a theodolite”; and the celebration of them in Burns’s verse
shows his Muse for the nonce in her Sunday clothes, cut after the
prevalent fashion. At least, most of the “Temples” and such-like have
disappeared, with which this oasis of grandeur was once adorned, after a
model shown in Kew Gardens and elsewhere by the “Capability” Browns,
Chamberses, Reptons, and other “improvers” of nature in the Georgian
period. More at home seem the ruins of a Priory hidden among old
sycamore trees, on a small island in the lake, where the Campbells had
a castle of refuge, bombarded from the shore by Montrose as he swept
through the Highlands. General Monk’s soldiery were quartered on this
island, and have the traditional credit of teaching the natives to smoke
tobacco; but snuffing, at least, was older in the Highlands.
It is whispered that the lord of this lake does not trust himself on the
water that, according to old prophecy, is to be fatal to a Breadalbane.
But for undoomed strangers a tourist steamer plies on Loch Tay, “an
immense plate of polished silver, its dark heathy mountains and thickets
of oak serving as arabesque frame to a magnificent mirror.” Like the
other Perthshire lakes, this is a deep trough set in slopes furrowed by
affluents of what appears a broad river fifteen miles long. Loch Tay’s
banks are well wooded and cultivated on the south side, while the north
shows more truly Highland features, “a clan of Titans,” as Scott calls
them, commanded by “the frowning mountains of Ben Lawers, and the still
more lofty eminence of Ben Mhor, arising high above the rest, whose
peaks retain a dazzling helmet of snow far into the summer season, and
sometimes during the whole year.” Ben Lawers is now recognised as the
chieftain of Perthshire summits, only a few hundred feet short of Ben
Nevis. From the lake this is easily ascended for what Macculloch extols
as the most varied and far-reaching Highland prospect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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