The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North CarolinaZeigler, Wilbur Gleason
History
The Heart of the Alleghanies; or, Western North Carolina
Zeigler, Wilbur Gleason
Allegheny Mountains; North Carolina -- Description and travel
The distance over the mountain is 12 miles, and but one house, a log
cabin, empty and forlorn, almost hidden in a dark cove, is to be seen.
The woods are as dense as those of the lowlands, and so well trimmed by
nature, so fresh and green are they, so invigorating the air that
circles through them, that one, if he ever felt like retiring to some
vast wilderness, might well wish his lodge to be located here. All the
mountains of the Nantihala range are exceedingly steep. To ascend this
one, the road winds back and forth in zigzag trails, so that in reaching
one point near the summit, you can clearly see three parallel roads
below you. The view from the top of the pass is one never to be
forgotten. Higher spurs of the Nantihalas shoot up in rugged
magnificence across the gorge that falls away from the brow of the peak
on which the highway winds. In spite of the rocky and perpendicular
character of the slopes of these neighboring peaks, black wild forests
cover them from bases to summits. Dazzling white spots on the front of
the nearest mountain show where some enterprising miner had worked for
mica. In one direction there is a valley view. It is toward the east.
Its great depth renders one dizzy at the prospect. White specks on
yellow clearings in the green basin mark the few farm houses. A streak
of silver winds through it, vanishing before the eye strikes the bases
of the Cowee mountains, which wall the background.
All along the lofty pass, the road is crossed by little sparkling
streams pouring over the mossed rocks, under the birches and pines. By
one of these roadside rivulets is an enchanting spot for a noonday
lunch.
“Here twilight is and coolness: here is moss,
A soft seat, and a deep and ample shade.
Drink, Pilgrim, here; Here rest! and if thy heart
Be innocent, here, too, shalt thou refresh
Thy spirit, listening to some gentle sound,
Or passing gale, or hum of murmuring bees!”
The western slope is less precipitous than the eastern, and after a
descent through an unbroken forest, the traveler arrives at Monday’s.
The most direct course to Charlestown, Swain county, is down the river;
but for the next ten or twelve miles the mountains so crowd the stream
that no road is laid. A bridle-path winds through the forbidding
fastnesses, occasionally in sight of the stream. From Brier Town, a
scattered settlement, the falls of the river can be reached by a walk of
four miles. These falls, on account of their inaccessibility, are seldom
visited, except by the cattle herder and hunter. They pour over the lip
of a ragged cliff in a wild gorge, hidden by lofty and precipitous
mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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