The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
There is a difference generally between a crest and a badge, though in
some cases the badge was really a crest. This was so before armorial
bearings became hereditary, for the badge which the knight wore on his
helmet formed its crest. Afterwards the same device was handed down to
generation from generation. Individuals, possibly with a view of hiding
their identity, sometimes wore a special badge instead of their family
crest; but the badge as generally understood was, as has already been
indicated, worn by the retainers and was usually chosen by each head
of the family. The matter is further complicated, because badges were
sometimes hereditary and occasionally identical with the crest proper.
It is of course only the hereditary badges which have survived to the
present day, and in only one or two cases are they apparently still used
as such, though occasionally they survive for other purposes. The Prince
of Wales's feathers we have already mentioned. They were not adopted by
the Black Prince for the reasons usually given in history, as there is
nothing to show that the King of the Bohemians ever wore them, and long
before his time an ostrich feather was often used as a royal badge in
England.
On his carriage, the Marquis of Abergavenny wears his badges, a rose and
a portcullis, one on each side of his crest, and there are interesting
cases here and there of badges worn as part of a livery. The porters of
the Inner Temple wear the pascal lamb in silver. Watermen still have
badges on their arms, and not very long ago the private firemen of the
insurance companies wore badges bearing the sign of the company. When
speaking of signs, it is worthy of note that very many royal badges have
furnished signs for inns. We cannot go into details, but we may mention
the White Hart of Richard II, the Falcon and Fetterlock of Henry VII,
now degenerated into the hawk and buckle, and the Rose and Crown also
used by the Tudors.
Those who chance to see the dress of our convicts will hardly be
inclined to associate it in any way with that of royalty. Yet it is
true, nevertheless, that the broad arrow which marks--we can hardly say
adorns--the garments of the penitentiary, is in reality a royal badge.
The broad arrow can be traced to an ancient symbol consisting of three
converging rods or rays of light used by the Druids, and it was adopted
by Edward III as his badge. The symbol was also worn by the Black
Prince and other Princes of Wales. As early as the year 1386 the broad
arrow was used in the Royal household, and from the beginning of the
eighteenth century onwards it was adopted as a mark for distinguishing
Government stores.
[Illustration: FIG. 89.--The postilion of a Lord Mayor of London,
wearing a crest upon his cap, and a coat of arms upon his sleeve.
(Copied by permission from a plate published by the John Williamson Co.,
Ltd.)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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