The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present timeChallamel, Augustin
History
The history of fashion in France : $b or, the dress of women from the Gallo-Roman period to the present time
Challamel, Augustin
Clothing and dress -- France -- History
The jest produced laughter, but the wit is open to criticism.
Paniers, however, remained in fashion, and even increased in size. In
vain did men protest against them. There is a story told of a sailor,
who, meeting two ladies in the city of Paris whose paniers took up the
whole width of the street, found it was impossible to get past them.
Pride forbade him to turn back, and in a moment he had taken a flying
leap over paniers and ladies, to the admiration and applause of the
spectators of both sexes.
An actress, who was making her first appearance in the character of a
princess betrothed to a king of Sparta, appeared on the stage in a panier
five yards and a half in circumference, under a skirt of silver gauze.
This was trimmed with puffs of gold gauze and pink crape, edged with blue
jet, and with bouquets of roses scattered here and there. The under-skirt
was of pink silk. Trailing garlands of roses were fastened on by sashes
of fringed-out cloth of silver. The train dragged six yards on the floor.
Handsome silver embroidery, mingled with white roses, bordered the gown;
the sleeves were half-long, draped like the skirt, and caught up with
diamond buttons, over pink silk like that of the slip. Her bracelets were
of rubies and diamonds, and above the panier was a belt of “strass,” or
imitation diamonds and rubies.
Her hair was dressed in what the celebrated hair-dresser Herain was
pleased to call the Greek style. A quantity of hair, frizzed into the
shape of a pyramid upside down, was framed in roses, gems, and silver
gauze. A regal crown surmounted the whole, and a long veil hung down to
the edge of the gown. The veil was “à vapeur d’argent,” that is, of very
light gauze covered with gold spangles; on the left side was an enormous
cluster of pink and white feathers, topped by a gigantic heron.
This extraordinary attire was completed by gloves from Martials; white
silk stockings with pink and silver clocks, and shoes to match, with
heels at least three inches in height.
Louis XIV. presented Mdlle. de Brie and Mme. de Molière with the mantles
worn by them in the comedy of the “Sicilien.” This was an additional
reason for actresses to be included among the queens of fashion. Did they
not receive presents from the king?
It is hard to believe, but members of the sterner sex also yielded to
the fascination of hoops. They, too, had their paniers, consisting of
whalebones fitted into the wide basques of their coats.
M. de Létorières had “a straw-coloured watered silk coat, faced with
a dark green material shot with gold; a green and gold shoulder knot
(aiguillette), and a set of large and small crystal opal buttons set in
brilliants, as also was the handle of his sword; his hair was arranged in
two waving locks powdered with tan-coloured powder, and fell lightly and
gracefully on his neck.”
In those days, Fashion ruled very despotically, and took no heed of the
severity of the winter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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