For two years “le faire brelander” was in fashion, that is, the hair was cut short and curled. On the other hand, Nanteuil, the famous engraver, has bequeathed to us portraits of women with most luxuriant hair; long ringlets mixed with pearls rise from the crown of the head, and fall down on either side. The “capeline” of the seventeenth century was a hat worn by ladies when hunting, or at a ball or masquerade. It was generally made of straw, with a deep brim lined with silk or satin, and was covered with feathers. Sometimes it was merely a velvet cap, trimmed with feathers of no great value. Long ringlets were called “moustaches.” “Women wore curled moustaches hanging down over the cheeks, and reaching to the bosom. Servants and bourgeoises met with great disfavour when they wore moustaches like young ladies.” From the time of the Fronde, many Frenchwomen had continued very partial to patches. A poet, writing under the name of “La Bonne Faiseuse,” says:— “Tel galant qui vous fait la nique, S’il n’est pris aujourd’hui, s’y trouve pris demain; Qu’il soit indifférent ou qu’il fasse le vain, A la fin la _mouche_ le pique.”[33] In the “Adresses de Paris” (1691), De Pradel informs us that “The best patch-maker lives in the Rue St. Denis, at the sign of ‘La Perle des Mouches.’” La Fontaine tells us in verse the use of patches. He puts the following lines into the mouth of an ant:— “Je rehausse d’un teint la blancheur naturelle, Et la dernière main que met à sa beauté Une femme allant en conquête, C’est un ajustement des _mouches_ emprunté.”[34] As a little fanciful adjunct, ladies wore “palatines” of white gauze, or of English point or French lace in summer, and miniver in winter. They were so called after Charlotte Elizabeth of Bavaria, daughter of the Elector Palatine, and second wife of Monsieur, who was the first to make use of them, in order, it is said, to avoid the immodesty of exposing her shoulders and bosom. She was called by the courtiers “toute d’une pièce,” on account of her frankness and worth, but the “palatine” was her only success at Versailles. Until the reign of Louis XIV., leather gloves had been worn by men only, and resembled the war-gauntlets of the ancient monarchy; but during his reign women displayed the beauty of their hands by wearing either kid gloves reaching to the upper arm, or long mittens in netted silk; while charming pink or blue satin slippers, with rosettes on the instep, clad their feet. “This reminds me,” says Tallemant, “of some of the queen’s ladies, who, that they might wear pretty shoes, tightly bound their feet with bands of their hair, and fainted from pain in the queen’s room.” High heels soon made their appearance, and continued increasing in height until heels of eight centimètres were considered quite an ordinary size. François Colletet exclaims in “Les Tracas de Paris:”— “Mais considère leur patin Qui d’un demi-pied les élève.”[35]