The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.Gilroy, Clinton G.
History
The History of Silk, Cotton, Linen, Wool, and Other Fibrous Substances;: Including Observations on Spinning, Dyeing, and Weaving.
Gilroy, Clinton G.
History, Ancient; Textile fabrics -- History
The frequent allusions to silk in the complimentary poems of Claudian,
receive illustration from various imperial laws, which were promulgated
in the same century, and in part by the very emperors to whom his
flattery is addressed, and which are preserved in the CODE OF
JUSTINIAN. Their object was not to encourage the silk manufacture,
but, on a principle very opposite to that of modern times, to make
it an imperial monopoly. The admiration excited by the splendor and
elegance of silk attire was the ground, on which it was forbidden that
any individual of the _male sex_ should wear even a silken border upon
his tunic or pallium, with the exception of the emperor, his officers
and servants. To confine the enjoyment of these luxuries more entirely
to the imperial family and court, all private persons were strictly
forbidden engaging in the manufacture, gold and silken borders were to
be made only in the imperial Gynæcea[55].
[55] See the Corpus Juris Civilis, Lugduni 1627, folio, tom. v. Codex
Justiniani, l. x. tit. vii. p. 131. 134.
THE PERIPLUS MARIS ERYTHRÆI.
In this important document on ancient geography and commerce, we find
repeated mention of silk in its raw state, in that of thread, and
woven[56]. These articles were conveyed down the Indus to the coast
of the Erythrean Sea. They were also brought to the great mart of
Barygaza, which was on the Gulf of Cambay near the modern Surat, and
to the coast of Lymirica, which was still more remote. The author of
the Periplus states, that they were carried by land through Bactria to
Barygaza from a great city called _Thina_, lying far towards the North
in the interior of Asia. He of course refers to some part of Serica.
It is remarkable, that he makes no mention of silk as the native
production of India.
[56] Arriani Opp., vol. ii. Blancardi, pp. 164. 170. 173. 177.
Silk is mentioned in two passages of the laws of Manu, viz. XI. v.
168, and XII. v. 64. It is, however, observed by Heeren, who quotes
passages of the Ramayana that make mention of silk, that garments of
this material are there represented as worn only on festive occasions,
and that they were undoubtedly Seric or Chinese productions[57]. Indeed
it appears that the cloth made from the thread of the native worms of
Hindostan, although highly valued for strength and durability, is not
remarkable for fineness, beauty, or splendor.
[57] Ideen über die Politik, &c. der alten Welt, i. 2. pp. 647. 648.
665-668. 677. 3rd edition. Göttingen, 1815.
RUFUS FESTUS AVIENUS.
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