The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)St. John, James Augustus
History
The History of the Manners and Customs of Ancient Greece, Volume 2 (of 3)
St. John, James Augustus
Greece -- Social life and customs
Over the chiton was worn a shorter robe not reaching below the knee, and
confined above the loins by a broad riband. This also was, in some
instances, furnished with sleeves, and of a rich purple or saffron
colour, generally ornamented, like the chiton, with a broad border of
variegated embroidery. To these, in order to complete the walking-dress,
was added a magnificent mantle, generally purple, embroidered with gold,
which, being thrown negligently over the shoulders,[159] floated airily
about the person, discovering the under garments exquisitely disposed
for the purpose of displaying all the contours of the form, particularly
of the waist and bosom. The Athenian ladies being, like our own,
peculiarly jealous of possessing the reputation of a fine figure, and
nature sometimes failing them, had recourse to art, and wore what, among
milliners, I believe, are called _bustles_.[160] I am sorry to be
obliged to add, that there were, also, mothers at Athens who anticipated
us in the absurdity of tight lacing, and invented corsets for the
purpose of compressing the abdomen and otherwise reducing the figures of
their daughters to some artificial standard which they had already begun
to set up in defiance of nature.[161] Some women, too, when apprehensive
of growing fat, would collect on fine wool a quantity of summer dew,
which they afterwards squeezed out and drank, this liquid having been
supposed to be possessed of deleterious qualities, more particularly the
ascending dew.[162]
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Footnote 159:
We find, from ancient monuments, that persons likewise wore over their
shoulders an article of dress exactly resembling the modern cape or
tippet.—Mus. Cortonens. tab. 58.
Footnote 160:
Athen. xiii. 23. Alex. Frag. v. 13, seq.
Footnote 161:
Victor. Var. Lect. ii. 6. 32.
Footnote 162:
Plut. Quæst. Nat. § 6. t. v. p. 321.—Coray sur Hippocrate, t. II. p.
82, seq.
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Like the eastern ladies of the present day, they seldom went abroad
without their veil, which was a light fabric of transparent texture,
white or purple, from Cos, or Laconia. It was thrown tastefully over the
head, raised in front on the point of the sphendone,[163] as in modern
Italy by the comb, and hung waving on the shoulders and down the back in
glittering folds. But this was not the only covering they made use of
for their head. Those modern writers who have so thought are mistaken,
since it is clear, both from contemporary testimony and numerous works
of art still remaining, that very frequently they wore caps or bonnets.
Several examples occur in Mr. Hope’s work, on the Costumes of the
Ancients;[164] and Mnesilochos, in Aristophanes, when putting on the
disguise of a woman for the purpose of being present at the Festival of
Demeter, like Clodius at that of the Bona Dea, desires to borrow from
Agathon a net or mitre for the head. “Will you have my night-cap?”
inquires the poet. “Exactly,” replies Euripides, “that is just what we
want.”[165]
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