It would be unfair and misleading to take the present Jewish population
of Syria as the representative of ancient Israel. It still perpetuates,
indeed, the sects of Pharisees and Sadducees, and it still holds aloof
from the surrounding population with that independence and tenacity
which has marked Israel from of old. Crucified by Romans, butchered and
tortured by Crusaders, oppressed and driven forth by Moslems, this
marvellous people lives yet and will live on. In Europe the lot of the
Jew has been and still is a bitter one. In Syria to-day the lowest and
most insulting term of abuse among the Fellahin is to call each other
Jews. Yet the spirit of the people is not broken by oppression, as is
the spirit of the Fellahin. The Jew takes what comes and says little;
but he believes in himself, his past and his future, with a faith
indomitable as it is daring. Still it must be confessed that the Jew of
Palestine is generally repulsive. Mark Twain’s description of them as he
saw them at Tiberias is hardly overdrawn--“long-nosed, lanky,
dyspeptic-looking ghouls with the indescribable hats on, and a long curl
dangling down in front of each ear.” The hats are circular black felt
plates, giving to their wearers a peculiar air of conscious rectitude
and semi-clerical superiority; the curls are grown for the convenience
of the archangel in the resurrection! The younger men and lads of
Tiberias impress one as the most unpleasant-looking of all the
inhabitants of the land. They are so neurotic and effeminate, and at the
same time so monstrously supercilious. The Jewish quarters are famous
for their excessive dirt. In the visitors’ book of the hotel at
Tiberias, Captain MacGregor wrote “that the _Rob Roy_ and myself had
stopped there two nights, and that the canoe was not devoured.” This is
not encouraging, and in part it is the result of mistaken methods. Many
of these Jews are subsidised, and a subsidised religion is inevitably
degrading. A man who receives an income for no other service to his kind
than that he is a Jew is not likely to do credit to his ancestors.
In the Samaritans we have better representatives of the ancient days. No
people in the land have a more pathetic quaintness about them than these
few survivors of antiquity who are still met with in the streets of
Nablus. They preserve the old type of features, for their blood has been
unmixed for more than 2000 years. But they are fast dying out, and only
a remnant of less than 200 individuals is now alive. Difficult of
access, reserved, mysterious, they are the ghosts of ancient Israel, who
seem to haunt rather than to enjoy their former heritage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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