So it comes to pass that he who journeys intelligently through Palestine
reads the history of Israel ever afterwards with a quite new interest.
The Bible is incomparably the best guide-book to Syria; and you seem to
journey through its chapters as you move from place to place. Here is
the fig tree planted in the vineyard; there, the tower guarding the
wine-press. Unmuzzled oxen are trampling the corn on the
threshing-floor, from whence the wind drives the chaff in a glistening
cloud. Women are still coming from the city to draw water, and grinding
in couples at the mill. We saw the prodigal son, drinking and singing at
Beyrout; and the owner of the waggonloads of corn we noted in Hauran had
kept them from the last year on the chance of a drought, which would
raise their prices in the market--he was the rich man of the prophets
who was grinding the faces of the poor. Under the walls of Jezreel a
curious coincidence brought back vividly to mind the tragic fate of
Jezebel. It was there that we first saw people with painted eyes and
faces; and there a horse lay dead with a pack of dogs at work upon the
body. Next morning, as we parted, nothing was left but the skeleton and
the hoofs. The people whom you meet are talking in Bible language. When
they repeat the familiar words of Scripture they are not quoting texts,
but transacting business in their ordinary way. We were told of a
shepherd near Hebron who, when asked why the sheepfolds there had no
doors, answered quite simply, “I am the door.” He meant that at night,
when the sheep were gathered within the circular stone wall of the
enclosure, he lay down in its open entrance to sleep, so that no sheep
might stray from its shelter without wakening him, and no ravenous beast
might enter but across his body. In the north, an American was
endeavouring to persuade a stalwart Syrian lad to try his fortunes in
Chicago. The boy evidently felt the temptation, but he turned smilingly
towards the middle-aged man at his side, and, pointing to him, answered,
“Suffer me first to bury my father.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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