The Holy Land and SyriaCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Religion
The Holy Land and Syria
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Palestine -- Description and travel; Syria -- Description and travel
The walls of Jerusalem enclose an area of not more than three hundred
acres of ground, made up of hill and hollow, all filled with the
flat-roofed box-like houses. There is no regularity in the city. The
streets wind in and out and up and down, now becoming narrow, murky
tunnels, and now roofed with the blue sky of Palestine. They are so
narrow that through most of them no wheeled vehicle can go, and standing
in the middle of many of them you can touch the walls on both sides with
your outstretched hands. It is in such streets that the thousands move to
and fro at Easter.
[Illustration: Grandfather and grandson—and both are followers of the
ancient profession of begging. Under Turkish taxation the Palestinians
were reduced to such dire poverty that asking alms is considered no
disgrace]
[Illustration: Where Christ rested when carrying the Cross to Calvary
pilgrims now stop to pray in the Via Dolorosa]
I doubt whether there is a town of five hundred population in the United
States which is built upon three hundred acres of land. Here there are
over one hundred times that many people, and the Easter visitors swell
the number to as many more. During Holy Week the bulk of this mass of
humanity crowds into the section of the city surrounding the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre. There seem to be scores of thousands of worshippers
in an area less than that of a city block, and the two or three narrow
streets leading to the sanctuary become so crowded that Moslem soldiers
must be constantly on guard to keep them in order. The gay colours of
the clothes of the Orient turn the streets into a flowing mass of broken
rainbows, and the jabber of a score of languages makes a noise quite as
remarkable as that heard at the Tower of Babel.
Let me show you David Street as it looked to me the day after Palm
Sunday. David Street is the narrow way leading from Jaffa Gate down
into the city. It is about ten feet wide, and we go through it into the
Christian Street, which, by a second turn, brings us to the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre. At the top is the Tower of David, a square stone
structure one hundred feet high, a part of which was in existence before
the Christian Era. In the large square in front of this is the vegetable
market of Jerusalem, where pedlars from Bethlehem and elsewhere sit on
the stones with their baskets about them. Standing with our backs to the
tower, as far as we can see, we look upon a moving mass of pilgrims and
natives of all ages and colours and costumes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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