England -- Description and travel; Icknield Way (England); Thomas, Edward, 1878-1917
In London it may be different, and I
should say that a navvy would use it in a friendly manner. But from
the Wallingford baker’s man on a country round it means “Poor ----,”
perhaps even “Dirty ----.” By this time essays on walking and walking
tours begin to wear very thin. You pitch Stevenson at any rate over
the hedge, and cannot find a place suitable for ---- and ----. Borrow
is safe, but then, he got really tired, and did not regard walking as
an amusement. I have no doubt that he had learned to stick out his
under-lip at the end of some of his marches.
Nevertheless, stumping along on a shoeful of blisters is not bad
when you are out of Royston and have Pen Hills upon your left; low,
insignificant, restful stretches upon your right; and Odsey before you
in the cool of evening. For some distance there was no hedge on the
left side of the road beyond the town, and the turf, marked for many
yards with tracks made before metalling, rose up to considerable swells
of chalk cloven sometimes gently and sometimes abruptly into coombes,
some smooth as lawns, some beautiful with trees. Tumuli were scattered
over this smoothest sward, and down from the ridge of the high land
came deep, curving trackways. At Odsey beyond they have found with
Samian pottery the shin bones of men who ran instead of walking. People
were walking for pleasure on the grass up above, and children were
laughing somewhere near but out of sight.
It was one of those delicious cool ends to perfect days which give
a man the feeling of having accomplished something, but by no means
compel him to inquire what. The road still possessed the hills even
when it was enclosed on both sides, for it kept broad margins, the
hedges were low between it and the grass or corn land, and it mounted
higher and higher. They were the gentlest of chalk hills crested
with trees--Thrift Hill, Gallows Hill, Crouch Hill, Pott’s Hill,
Rain Hill, Wheat Hill, Windmill Hill, and Weston Hills--and at their
highest points there were villages, like Therfield, Kelshall, Sandon,
Wallington, Clothall, Weston. I had still four or five miles to walk
at the feet of these hills, through a silence undisturbed by the few
market carts at long intervals. I am glad now that I walked them.
It seems to me now that my purely physical discomfort intensified
the taste of the evening’s beauty, as it certainly made sweeter the
perfection of enjoyment which I imagine possible at such an hour and
in such a place. The road was serpentining very little, but enough
to conceal from me for a long time the chief wayside marks ahead,
as well as my destination. I could always see about a quarter of a
mile before me, and there the white ribbon disappeared among trees.
And this quarter-mile was agreeable in itself, and always suggesting
something better beyond, though itself a sufficient end, if need were.
Moreover, I was looking out for a house which I had never seen or heard
described.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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