The Invention of the Sewing MachineCooper, Grace Rogers
History
The Invention of the Sewing Machine
Cooper, Grace Rogers
Sewing machines -- History
Most of the ready-made clothing establishments were small operations,
not large factories. Large quantities of cloth were purchased; cutting
was done in multiple layers with tailor's shears. Since many
seamstresses were needed, the garments were farmed out to the girls in
their homes. The manufacture of garments in quantity meant that the
profit on each garment was larger than a tailor could make on a single
custom-made item. The appeal of increased profits influenced many to
enter the new industry and, due to the ensuing competition, the retail
cost of each garment was lowered. Just as the new businesses were
getting underway, the Panic of 1837 ruined most of them. But the lower
cost and the convenience of ready-made clothing had left its mark. Not
only was the garment-manufacturing business re-established soon after
the Panic had subsided, but by 1841 the value of clothing sold at
wholesale in New York was estimated at $2,500,000 and by 1850--a year
before sewing machines were manufactured in any quantity--there were
4,278 clothing manufacturing establishments in the United States. Beside
New York City, Cincinnati was also one of the important ready-made
clothing centers. In 1850 the value of its products amounted to
$4,427,500 and in 1860 to $6,381,190. Boston was another important
center with a ready-made clothing production of $4,567,749 in 1860.
Philadelphia, Baltimore, Louisville, and St. Louis all had a large
wholesale clothing trade by 1860. Here was the ready market for a
practical sewing machine.[73]
Clothing establishments grew and began to have agencies in small towns
and the sewing work was distributed throughout the countryside. The new,
competing sewing-machine companies were willing to deliver a machine for
a small sum and to allow the buyer to pay a dollar or two a month until
the full amount of the sale was paid. This was an extension of the
hire-purchase plan (buying on credit) initiated by Clark of the Singer
Company. The home seamstresses were eager to buy, for they were able to
produce more piecework with a sewing machine and therefore earn more
money. An example of the effect that the sewing machine had on the
stitching time required was interestingly established through a series
of experiments conducted by the Wheeler and Wilson company. Four hand
sewers and four sewing-machine operators were used to provide the
average figures in this comparative time study, the results of which
were published in 1861;[74]
NUMBER OF STITCHES PER MINUTE
_By Hand_ _By Machine_
Patent leather, fine stitching 7 175
Binding hats 33 374
Stitching vamped shoes 10 210
Stitching fine linen 23 640
Stitching fine silk 30 550
TIME FOR GARMENTS STITCHED
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