Below where we lay, across Suchow creek, was to be seen a neat little protestant church, with a small tower, and the unpretending residences of the missionaries of protestant churches, whose unremitting labors, and social deprivation, deserve better reward than the mere partial success with which they meet. Above the consulate and hongs, commences the city, its walls approaching the water’s edge, and running some distance back. A short walk through a crowded and muddy suburb and you enter one of the gates. The imperial authority, the Taoutae, fearing an attack from the adherents of the rebel chief, Thae-ping-Wang, had fortified the place, and most of the silk and other stores were closed. Previous to our arrival they had experienced the shock of an earthquake, which had shaken down a wall or so. I passed through the narrow, sloppy streets, but the scene was far from the animated one that we had seen in Canton. The population, whose complexions and persons are better than in the more southern districts, were evidently apprehensive that there was soon to be “too muchee bobbery,” or fighting. But nothing can restrain the lower classes from their insatiate vice of gambling. In the tea-gardens, from morning to night, it was to be seen going on; while the “sing-song” theatres were amusing others. At the entrance to a joss-house, and along the streets, were to be seen the horrible ghastly emaciation, and foamy mouths, of dead and dying beggars, in filthy tattered rags, to whose presence the passers-by seemed utterly indifferent. Some had dragged themselves to die on the flag-stone crossing of a small stream, that they might possibly get interment; it being said that any one who touched them, is compelled to have this office performed. The occupants of the foreign hongs had formed a volunteer, or patrol company, for the custody of their property, and under the protection of the guns of quite a large English and American force, were having their amusement, indifferent to Taontae, or Thae-ping-wang. Dinners were given at the consulates, _a la Chinois_, at which the American and English envoys were present; and at night parties were given by these functionaries, and well attended; or a neatly-printed bill with “Imperial Theatre, Shanghai, and _Vivant Regina and Princess_,” requested the honor of your Company, to witness the dramatic doings of “her majesty’s servants,” of the English brig “Lily.” Then, too, there was the “spring meeting of the Shanghae races,” which were interesting, and ridiculous too, at times. The course was not very extensive, but quite well thronged, here and there a Tartar soldier being visible in the crowd. The races, in which I noticed Mr. T’hën Tih had entered his steed Qui-Qui, were:—