The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
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The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
_July 2nd, Tuesday._--I parted from my children this morning at
eleven. I have left them comfortable, established in a good house with
proper attendants, and Dr. Stuart and an Italian physician, Gianetti,
to take care of them. The day was delicious, ardent sun, deep blue sky,
everybody was gasping from the heat; I alone as cold as marble, but
inwardly warmed by the glowing sun.
[Sidenote: CROSSING THE APENNINES]
Prato is the first post, a pretty little town; put me in mind of
La Bonneville in Savoy. It is situated at the foot of a range of
calcareous hills forming the sides of a crater of considerable
extent. We continued in this plain till we reached Pistoja. The heat
being too intense to remain in the carriage, we stopped two hours at
Pistoja. Two miles from Pistoja we began ascending the high chain of
Apennines, which runs across Italy and divides it from Cisalpine Gaul,
or Lombardy. About half-way up the hill to the first post we stopped
to look back upon the valley. Florence, Pistoja, Prato, the Umbrino
meandering in the plain until it reaches the sea at Leghorn, made a
lovely _coup d’œil_. The project was to travel all night, but my
face pained me so much that by an extraordinary degree of complaisance
I was allowed to stop at St. Marcello, a delightful little inn.
_Wednesday, July 3rd._--I was enchanted with the prettiness of
the environs of the inn: just opposite my window there is a steep
verdant bank shaded by tall cypress. The hills above are studded with
chestnut, ilex, beech, the wild cherry, and vast assemblage of pretty
trees. Passed through a neat town, to which our inn was a suburb. Kept
ascending for miles. A magnificent torrent roaring at our feet and
the sharp pinnacles of the Apennines springing above our heads. The
industry of the inhabitants is manifested by their cultivating every
little spot that is accessible to the foot of man, and success warrants
their enterprise, as the production is abundant, and the walls prop up
the little field.
These mountains must have afforded a secure asylum to those numerous
predatory bands which infested this delightful country in former days;
the bold robber might bid defiance to the vigilance of the _Holy
Brother_. Indeed, the wretched state of society about the Middle
Ages must have rendered travelling a service of danger, from the
perpetual wars between each petty State, the burdensome jurisdiction of
the barons, and the outrages committed by outlaws.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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