The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On this Friday morning, though our lodging was a very mean one, we
did not fail to find plentiful provision. It is the habit of these
people to warm neither their sheets before going to bed nor their
clothes before getting up, and they take it ill if any one should
have a fire lighted in the kitchen for this service, or even make use
of such fire as may be burning. This was one of the chief causes of
wrangling we encountered in the houses where we lodged; indeed, even in
the depths of the mountains and forests, where ten thousand feet of
pinewood could be bought for less than fifty sous, they were just as
ill disposed to let us make a fire as elsewhere. On the Friday morning
we departed, and followed the more easy road to the left, instead of
taking the mountain path which leads direct to Trent, M. de Montaigne
being minded to make a détour of several days in order to visit certain
fine cities of Germany; and annoyed that, when at Vanguen, he had
altered his plan which he had first made of going direct to Germany,
and had taken another route. On our road we saw, as in divers other
places, certain water-mills which have water brought to them simply by
wooden troughs, which take in the water at the foot of some mountain,
and then, being raised and propped high above the ground, discharge the
stream down a very steep incline from the end of the last trough. After
going a league on the road, we stopped to dine at Frissen.[65]
This is a small Catholic town, belonging to the bishop of Augsburg. We
found there numerous members of the train of the Archduke of Austria,
who was paying a visit to the Duke of Bavaria in a castle hard by.[66]
It was decided to leave there on the banks of the Lech our heavy
baggage, and that I and certain others should take them on to Augsburg
on a raft, as they term the trunks of trees bound together, which they
break up when in harbour. There is an abbey in which they showed to
Messieurs a chalice and a stole which they hold to be relics. These
belonged to a saint named Magnus,[67] who was, as they declare, the son
of a king of Scotland, and a disciple of Columbanus. Pepin founded this
monastery for the benefit of this Magnus, whom he made the first abbot.
He likewise caused to be written there on the roof of the nave this
inscription, and below the same notes of music to which it might be
sung: “_Comperta virtute beati Magni fama, Pipinus Princeps locum quem
Sanctus incoluit regia largitate donavit._” Charlemagne subsequently
enriched the place still further, as an inscription in the monastery
records. After dinner we all met at Chonguen[68] at bedtime, after a
journey of four leagues.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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