The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On Low Sunday I witnessed the ceremony of the bestowal of alms on
certain young maidens. On this day the Pope had, in addition to his
ordinary equipage, twenty-five horses led before him, decked and
covered with cloth of gold, and most richly caparisoned, and ten or
twelve mules covered with crimson velvet, all these being led by his
lackeys on foot. Then came the Pope’s litter, also covered with crimson
velvet. The Pope himself rode on his mule, and before him went four
men on horseback who carried each one a cardinal’s hat, set on the top
of a staff which was covered with red velvet and gilt about the handle
and the top. The cardinals who followed rode also on mules and wore
their pontifical garb, the skirts of their robes being fastened by
pins to the mules’ bridles. The maidens numbered a hundred and seven,
each one being accompanied by an elderly kinswoman, and when the mass
was finished they left the church and marched in a long procession.
Having re-entered the church of La Minerva--where this function takes
place--they passed one by one through the choir and kissed the feet
of the Pope; who, after blessing them, gave them each from his own
hand a purse of white damask containing a note on his bankers. It was
understood that all these girls have found husbands, wherefore they
come to ask for a dowry, which is fixed at a sum of thirty-five crowns
apiece, in addition to the white robe costing five crowns, which they
wear at their wedding. Their faces were covered with linen veils, with
no opening save holes to look through.[125]
I was speaking lately of the advantages of Rome, and will now add, in
reference to this matter, that I find it, of all towns in the world,
the one most filled with the corporate idea, in which difference of
nationality counts least; for, by its very nature, it is a patchwork
of strangers, each one being as much at home as in his own country.
The authority of its ruler lies over the whole of Christianity.[126]
By his own will he, as the supreme arbiter of right and wrong, can
compel the obedience of strangers in their own lands, just the same
as if they were denizens of Rome. Considerations of birth have no
weight in the promotion of men to high office in his court. The freedom
given under the government of Venice, and the conveniences of traffic,
attract thither vast numbers of foreigners, but they are nevertheless
like men in a stranger city; while here foreigners will be found in
special offices carrying emolument and responsibility, for Rome is
the home of all those connected with the Church. As many or perhaps
more strangers may be seen in Venice (where the multitude of these far
exceeds anything of the sort in France or Germany), but not nearly so
many resident or domiciled foreigners. The common people are no longer
affronted by the sight of a man dressed in French, or Spanish, or
German fashion, and nearly every beggar who begged alms of me spoke my
own tongue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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