The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
The pain in the head would sometimes leave me for five or six days or
even longer, but I could never feel myself safe from it. I was taken
with a fancy to study the Florentine tongue, and I gave much time and
trouble thereto, in return for which I reaped very little profit.
The heat this summer was much greater than usual. On the 12th I went
outside the city to visit the villa of Signor Benedetto Buonvisi, a
fairly pleasant house. Amongst other things there I marked certain
fair little thickets planted in sloping ground. They plant some fifty
paces apart clumps of trees of that sort which holds green all the year
round, and they surround these with shallow ditches, and construct
certain covered ways within, and in the middle of each is a station
for the fowler who, by means of a silver whistle and a quantity of
captive thrushes trained for the purpose, and by setting limed twigs at
every corner, will catch in a single morning two hundred thrushes at
a certain season of the year, to wit, in the month of November. Such
sport is only to be found in one district near a certain quarter of the
city.
On Sunday the 13th I left Lucca, having settled to hand over to Signor
Ludovico Pinitesi fifteen crowns for the hire of his house, making one
crown per diem, a sum with which he was fully satisfied. We saw on our
way a vast number of villas belonging to the gentle-folk of Lucca,
handsome, neat, and graceful houses with abundance of water, but the
supply is intermittent and does not come from natural springs. It is
indeed wonderful to see so little running water in a land mountainous
as this. Their habit is to tap the rivulets by small channels, and lead
the water through fountains, vases, and grottoes and other devices
of the sort for the ornamentation of the gardens. That same evening
we arrived in time for supper at the villa of the Signor Ludovico
aforesaid, his son Signor Oragio having been of our party on the
journey. He gave us excellent entertainment, regaling us with a most
sumptuous supper at night, set out under a wide portico exquisitely
cool and open on every side, and giving us fine bed-chambers with
clean delicate linen like that we had rejoiced over in his father’s
house at Lucca.
We left early on Monday morning and rode without dismounting for
fifteen miles to Bagni della Villa, where we arrived at dinner-time.
On our way we halted a short time to see the villa of the bishop who
was there in residence. We met with the kindest reception from the
whole household, and were pressed to take our dinner with them. On
our arrival we were heartily welcomed by all the residents; indeed,
it seemed as if I had returned to my own home. I had lodging in the
same apartment as before, at twenty crowns a month and the same other
conditions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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