The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On the 27th I was so sharply troubled with toothache after dinner
that I sent for the doctor, who, when he had taken account of all the
symptoms, and had marked especially that the pain subsided while he was
there, decided that this was no material fluxion, but one extremely
subtle, and little else than wind which ascended from the stomach to
the head, and, having mixed itself with the humours there, caused this
disorder. This opinion seemed to me reasonable, seeing that I had often
suffered from similar seizures in other regions of my body.
On Monday the 28th of August I went at dawn to the Bernabo spring and
drank over seven pounds thereof. I am sure this draught gave me the
vapours and made my head ache, and on Tuesday I drank nine pounds from
the common spring and felt my head affected immediately after. In sooth
my head was in very bad case, having never recovered from the effects
of the first bath I took. It has pained me less often of late, and in a
different way, as it has not weakened me or dazzled my eyes as it did
a month ago. I suffered chiefly in the back, and pain never attacked
my head, but it flew to my left cheek, affecting all parts thereof,
the teeth down to the very roots, the ear, and a portion of the nose.
The pang would be brief, but as a rule sharp and burning, and wont to
attack me frequently both night and day. This is how my head fared at
this juncture.
I am firmly convinced that the fumes of this water both in drinking
and in bathing--though I hold drinking to be the worse--are very bad
for the head, and even worse for the stomach. And on this account the
patients here are forced to take medicines to correct the action of the
water. On the Thursday I gave up drinking and rode in the morning to
see Costrone, a large village in the mountains. I found many fine and
fertile level spaces and pasturage to the very tops of the mountains.
To this village are attached several hamlets with comfortable houses
roofed with stone. On my way back I made a long circuit through the
hills.
My head meantime continued in its usual condition--to wit, a bad one;
I began to get weary of these baths, and if I had received from France
news for which I had been waiting--indeed for four months I had heard
nothing at all--I should have set forth at once and finished my autumn
cure in some other bath. In travelling towards Rome the baths of Bagno
Acqua, Siena, and Viterbo would lie but little off the main road; and
towards Venice I should pass near those of Bologna and Padua.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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