The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On Sunday the 23rd of September we left Siena after dinner, and
travelled over a convenient road, which was a little unlevel in
places, as the country is broken up in low fertile hills. At the end
of twenty miles we came to S. Chirico, a pretty little town, where
we found lodging outside the walls. Our baggage-horse fell down as he
was crossing a brook we had to ford, and thus damaged greatly all my
things, my books especially, and we were forced to stop and dry them.
Montepulciano, Montecello, and Castiglioncello, were towns standing on
neighbouring hills to the left hand.
Early on Monday I went to see a bath about two miles distant, called
Vignone, after a little town near thereto. The bath is situated in
a somewhat elevated position, beneath which runs the river Urcia,
and round about it are grouped about a dozen cottages, ill-found and
distasteful, a lousy-looking den. There is a large pool, surrounded
with a wall and steps, in the midst of which may be seen boiling up
several springs of the hot water which, as it has no smell of sulphur,
little exhalation, and a red sediment, seemed to me more ferruginous
than anything else. It is never drunk. The size of this pool is sixty
paces by thirty-five, and near it are four or five covered enclosures
for the use of bathers. The bath has considerable reputation, and for
drinking the patients here give the preference to the water of S.
Carriano near S. Chirico, and eighteen miles towards Rome, to the left
of the main road.
In looking at the earthenware of these parts, which resembles
porcelain, and is white, and clean, and very cheap, I thought it would
be far more appetising for table use than the pewter used in France,
which in the inns is especially disagreeable. About this time I felt in
my head a slight return of the pain from which I deemed I was now fully
delivered. It troubled me as before, round the eyes and brow, and the
forepart of the head generally, in the form of heaviness and a weary,
disquiet feeling, causing, me much anxiety. On Tuesday we dined at La
Paglia, after a ride of thirteen miles, and slept at a bad inn at S.
Lorenzo, sixteen miles farther on.
On Wednesday morning a dispute arose between our people, and the
_vetturini_ of Siena, who, thinking that we were over-long in the road,
made a demur about paying the outlay for the horses for this evening.
The matter became so serious that I brought it before the governor,
who, having heard it, decided in my favour, and sent one of the
_vetturini_ to prison. I argued that the accident to the baggage-horse
in the river, by which the greater part of my goods were spoilt, was
the real cause of any delay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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