The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On Thursday, September 28th, I went in the morning to see some
other baths near this place, situated in a plain in a remote spot
some distance from the hills.[100] Formerly there were two separate
buildings used as baths, not very long ago, but these have perished
through neglect. There is a rank smell throughout the place. All that
now remains is a cabin containing a small spring of hot water which
forms a pool for bathers. This water is odourless, with an insipid
taste, and not over-warm. It seemed to me to contain iron, and it
is occasionally drunk. Farther on is what they call the Palace of
the Pope, the story being that Pope Nicolas either built or restored
it.[101] Below this palace, in a deep hollow, three separate springs
of hot water rise from the earth, one of which serves for drinking,
having a moderate warmth, no smell, but somewhat sharp on the palate.
I believe it contains much nitre. I came here with the view of taking
the waters for three days, the quantity taken being just the same as in
other places. Exercise is used after drinking, and they set great store
on sweating.
This water is held in high esteem, and quantities of it are carried
all over Italy; and the physician, who has written a treatise on
the potable water of the baths of Italy, gives it the first place,
commending it especially for diseases of the kidneys. It is usually
drunk in May. I gathered faint hope of making a cure when I read an
inscription on the wall, written by a certain man who cursed his
physician for having sent him to such a place, and affirmed that he had
suffered much ill from his stay there. Moreover, the proprietor hinted
to me that I had come too late in the season, and certainly did not
urge me to take the waters.
There is only one lodging-house, but it is large and well arranged, and
situated only about a mile and a half from Viterbo, so I went thither
on foot. There are three or four baths of various properties, and in
addition provision for the douche. This water throws up a white scum,
which hardens readily and becomes solid like ice, making a crust on
the surface of the water. If a linen cloth be dipped therein, it will
quickly become loaded with this scum and quite stiff. This substance
is sold into other parts for use in cleansing the teeth, and when
chewed it has no more taste than earth or sand; indeed, the composition
thereof is reputed to be the same as that of marble, in which case it
might well harden in the kidneys. It is said, however, that the water
which is exported in bottles has no sediment and remains quite clear.
I imagine it may be drunk in any quantity, and that the sharpness
before-named may give it a certain savour and make it easier to swallow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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