The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
From this place we followed the direct road and came to Caprarola, the
palace of Cardinal Farnese, and the most famous in all Italy.[106] I
have seen nothing in this country to be compared with it. The upper
part of the structure is in the form of a terrace built so that the
tiled roof is invisible. It is pentagonal in shape, but has all the
look of being a square. The interior is a perfect circle with wide
corridors running round, arched and painted all over. The mass of
building is immense, all the chambers being square and the large rooms
very beautiful. Amongst these is one, a marvel, which has in its
vaulted roof the celestial world with all its constellations, and on
its walls the terrestrial with all the regions accurately displayed,
every detail being richly painted on the wall aforesaid. In other
places are pictorial representations of the most heroic deeds of Pope
Paul III., and of the house of Farnese. The personages represented
are so life-like that the portraits of our Constable, of the Queen
Mother, or of her children, Charles, Henry, the Duke of Alençon, and
the Queen of Navarre, will be recognised at once by any who may see
them; and the same may be said with regard to King Francis, Henry II.,
Pietro Strozzi, and others. At the opposite ends of one of the saloons
are portraits of King Henry II. and King Philip. Under King Henry’s
portrait--which occupies the place of honour--is written, _Conservatore
di Casa Farnese_, and under King Philip, _Per li molti beni da lui
ricevuti_: in addition to these, there are many beautiful objects worth
seeing, amongst others, a grotto in which an artificial spray of
water falling into a basin conveys, both to ear and eye, the notion of
natural rain. The villa is situated in a barren mountainous country,
and the water for the fountains must needs be brought from Viterbo,
eight miles distant.[107]
We pursued our way over a level road running through a vast plain of
wide pastures, in the midst of which we came upon certain spots where
there was no grass, and where springs of clear cold water gushed forth,
but this water reeked so strongly of sulphur that it might be smelt a
long way off. After riding twenty-three miles we slept that night at
Monterossi, and on the morrow, Sunday, twenty-three more brought us to
Rome.
[Illustration: THE AQUEDUCT OF NERO
_From Piranesi’s Views of Rome_
_To face p. 166_, vol. iii.
]
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