One would
have said that it was the prey of a swarm of invisible little animals. I
rubbed it with my left hand, and little by little, it became normal. I
had lain with it under my head for many hours, and it had become numb. I
lived then, since pain is one of the privileges of life. But, then, what
did that funeral chant, which rang obstinately in my ears, mean? I
raised myself. Our apartment was in the same state as on the evening
before. Mrs. Simons and her daughter were sleeping profoundly. A huge
bunch of flowers like mine hung from the upper part of their tent. It
occurred to me that I had heard that the Greeks had a custom of
decorating their dwellings on the night before the first of May. These
bouquets and the boryana variabilis came, then, from the munificence of
the King. The funeral chant haunted me, I could still hear it. I climbed
the staircase which led to the King's cabinet, and saw a more curious
spectacle than any that had astonished me the evening before. An altar
was set up and dressed, under the pine. The monk, clothed in magnificent
pontificals, was celebrating, with imposing dignity, the divine office.
Our drinkers of the night before, some standing, others kneeling in the
dust, all religiously uncovered, were metamorphosed into little saints.
One fervently kissed an image painted on wood, another made the sign of
the cross, the most fervent bowed themselves to the ground and wiped the
dust with their hair. The King's young pipe-bearer circulated through
the crowd, with a plate, saying: "Give alms! He who giveth to the Church
lendeth to the Lord!" And the centimes showered upon the plate, and the
ring of the coins as they fell upon the copper dish made an
accompaniment to the voice of the priest and the prayers of the
suppliants. When I entered the assembly of the faithful, each one
saluted me with a discreet cordiality, which recalled the primitive
Church. Hadgi-Stavros, near the altar, made place for me at his side. He
held a large book in his hand, and judge of my surprise, when I heard
him recite the lessons in a loud voice. A brigand, officiating! He had
received, in his youth, two of the lower orders; he was reader. One
degree more, he would have been exorcist, and invested with the power of
chasing out devils! Assuredly, I am not one of those travelers who are
astonished at everything, and I practice, energetically enough, the nil
admirari; but I was wonder-struck and amazed before this strange
spectacle. Looking on at the genuflections, listening to the prayers,
one would have supposed these actors guilty, only, of a little idolatry.
Their faith seemed active and their conviction profound, but I who had
seen them at work and who knew how little Christ-like they were in
action, I could not help saying to myself: "Who is being fooled?"
The office lasted until some minutes after noon. An hour afterward, the
altar had disappeared, the men had begun to drink again, and the good
old man (the monk) led them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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