The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 3, September 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 3, September 1837
Various
Periodicals
The road to Paris, by Montreuil, Abbeville, and Beauvais, is
flat, stale, and unprofitable. There is little to be seen but
wheat-fields and pastures, and here and there a bit of a hut, with
the philanthropic announcement, 'Loge au pied et un cheval;' which
is equivalent, I presume, to the similar English establishments'
sign, 'Entertainment for man and horse.' Montreuil is an antique
and strongly-fortified town, entirely surrounded by a high wall,
and several out-posts. Here we stopped to dine. Abbeville, the
next, is the largest town on the route, and quite _continental_ in
its appearance. It was a fête-day, and the whole population were
amusing themselves in the streets, some with a dancing monkey, others
listening to a buffoon, or improvisatrice. Then we passed through
Airaines, Granvilliers, and Marseilles to Beauvais, famous for its
siege in 1472 by the Duke of Burgundy, which was raised by the heroic
Jean Hanchette, whose memory is still honored by an annual festival.
Here we took a good breakfast, for which our night ride had created
an excellent appetite. Passing then through the small villages of
Puiseux, Blaumont, Sur-Oise and Marseilles, we came to Saint Dennis,
the burial-place of the kings of France, and from thence proceeded
through a broad, straight, dusty avenue, to the capital, without
having any general view; and were set down at the bureaux of the
Messageries Royal, where our luggage was slightly examined, and I
was then escorted, by a young companion, to the Hotel De Lille et
d'Albion, opposite the Palais Royal. Dined at the table d'hôte,
with a company of thirty, all English. Got a cab and rode over one
of the bridges to find my quandam yankee doctor. Find it necessary
to be in earnest now about learning French. My ignorance is rather
awkward, but still it is not impossible to make myself understood;
and 'necessity is the mother of invention.'
* * * * *
AUGUST 2ND.--Hired a guide, or interpreter, to show me the
localities, and assist me in my business. In the city in general,
I am disappointed. The narrow, filthy streets, with gutters in the
centre, and without side-walks, and the antique and irregular
buildings, do not realize my notions of gay, elegant Paris. But the
extent and magnificence of the _public_ buildings, palaces, gardens,
parks, boulevards, etc., are enough to atone for the dirty streets.
The general view of the city, from one of the centre bridges, (the
atmosphere being wonderfully clear and transparent,) is grand and
imposing in the extreme. The luxurious and superb architecture of the
Louvre, Tuilleries, Luxembourg, and Palais Royal, and the _immense
extent_, as well as the great beauty and elegance, of the gardens
and parks, connected with these places, must astonish even the most
sanguine.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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