The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
On the next morning we left Tumba Ihere, and tramped over a red land
through alternate strips of rich cultivation and tangled jungle, which
presently opened out into a forest where the light-barked Msandarusi, or
copal-tree, attains its fullest dimensions. This is one of the richest
“diggins,” and the roadsides are everywhere pitted with pockets two or
three feet deep by one in diameter. Rain fell in huge drops, and the
heaviness of the ground caused frequent accidents to the asses’ loads.
About noon we entered the fine grain-fields that gird the settlements of
Muhogwe, one of the most dreaded in dreaded Uzaramo. In our case,
however, the only peril was the levée _en masse_ of the fair sex in the
villages, to stare, laugh, and wonder at the white men. “What should you
think of these whites as husbands?” asked Muinyi Wazira of the crowd.
“With such things on their legs?--Sivyo!--not by any means!”--was the
unanimous reply, accompanied with peals of merriment.
Beyond Muhogwe all was jungle and forest, tall trees rising from red
copalliferous sand, and shading bright flowers, and blossoming shrubs.
After crossing a low mud overgrown with rush and tiger-grass, and a
watercourse dotted with black stagnant pools, we ascended rising
well-forested ground, and lastly debouched upon the kraals of Muhonyera.
The district of Muhonyera occupies the edge of the plateau forming the
southern terrace of the Kingani River; and the elevated sea-beach is
marked out by lines of quartsoze pebbles running along the northern
slope of the hill upon which we encamped. Water is found in seven or
eight reedy holes in the valley below; it acquires from decomposed
vegetation an unnaturally sweet and slimy taste. This part of the
country, being little inhabited by reason of its malarious climate,
abounds in wild animals. The guides speak of lions, and the cry of the
Fisi or Cynhyæna was frequently heard at night, threatening destruction
to the asses. The Fisi, the Wuraba of the Somal, and the Wilde Honde of
the Cape, is the wolf of Africa, common throughout the country, where it
acts as scavenger. Though a large and powerful variety, it seldom
assaults man, except when sleeping, and then it snatches a mouthful from
the face, causing a ghastlier disfigurement even than the scalping of
the bear. Three asses belonging to the Expedition were destroyed by this
beast; in all cases they were attacked by night with a loud wrangling
shriek, and the piece of flesh was raggedly torn from the hind quarter;
after affording a live rump-steak, they could not be driven like Bruce’s
far-famed bullock. These, however, were the animals brought from
Zanzibar; that of Unyamwezi, if not tied up, defends itself successfully
against its cowardly assailant with teeth and heels, even as the zebra,
worthy of Homeric simile, has, it is said, kept the lion at bay. The
woods about Muhonyera contain large and small grey monkeys with black
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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