The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
Despite our increasing weakness, we marched seven hours on the 9th of
July, over a plain wild but prodigiously fertile, and varied by patches
of field, jungle and swamp, along the right bank of the Kingani river,
to another ragged old kraal, situated near a bend in the bed. This day
showed the ghost of an adventure. At the “Makutaniro,” or junction of
the Mbuamaji trunk-road with the other lines branching from various
minor sea-ports, my companion, who was leisurely proceeding with the
advance guard, found his passage barred by about fifty Wazaramo standing
across the path in a single line that extended to the travellers’ right,
whilst a reserve party squatted on the left of the road. Their chief
stepping to the front and quietly removing the load from the foremost
porter’s head, signalled the strangers to halt. Prodigious excitement of
the Baloch, whose loud “Hai, hui!” and nervous anxiety contrasted badly
with the perfect _sang froid_ of the barbarians. Presently, Muinyi
Wazira coming up, addressed to the headman a few words, promising cloth
and beads, when this African modification of the “pike” was opened, and
the guard moved forward as before. As I passed, the Wazaramo stood under
a tree to gaze. I could not but admire the athletic and statuesque
figures of the young warriors and their martial attitude, grasping in
one hand their full-sized bows, and in the other sheaths of grinded
arrows, whose black barbs and necks showed a fresh layer of poison.
At Tunda, “the fruit,” so called from its principal want, after a night
passed amidst the rank vegetation, and within the malarious influence of
the river, I arose weak and depressed, with aching head, burning eyes,
and throbbing extremities. The new life, the alternations of damp heat
and wet cold, the useless fatigue of walking, the sorry labour of
waiting and re-loading the asses, the exposure to sun and dew, and last,
but not least, of morbific influences, the wear and tear of mind at the
prospect of imminent failure, all were beginning to tell heavily upon
me. My companion had shaken off his preliminary symptoms, but Said bin
Salim, attacked during the rainy gusty night by a severe Mkunguru or
seasoning-fever, begged hard for a halt at Tunda--only for a day--only
for half a day--only for an hour. Even this was refused. I feared that
Tunda might prove fatal to us. Said bin Salim was mounted upon an ass,
which compelled us to a weary trudge of two hours. The animals were
laden with difficulty; they had begun to show a predilection for lying
down. The footpath, crossing a deep nullah, spanned a pestilential
expanse of spear-grass, and a cane, called from its appearance
Gugu-mbua, or the wild sugar plant, with huge calabashes and natural
clearings in the jungle, where large game appeared. After a short march
I saw the red flag of the vanguard stationary, and turning a sharp
corner found the caravan halted in a little village, called from its
headman Ba̓ńá Dirungá. This was premature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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