My own view of the valley was hasty, superficial and from a respectful
distance! I can well appreciate, however, what the Expedition endured
in order to give to the world knowledge of this wondrous spot. I
heartily commend to the readers of this volume the report of Prof.
Griggs in the National Geographic Magazine for May, 1917, in which he
relates the experience of himself and his party as they made their way
back and forth, plunging through suffocating vapors, trapping gases for
chemical analysis, making soundings, mapping the course of the valley
and studying the geology of what he calls "the most amazing example of
her processes which Nature has yet revealed to twentieth century
man,--one of Vulcan's melting pots from which the earth was created."
In a tent less than two miles from one of the huge clouds of steam he
slept at night and on one of the large flat stones outside, so hot that
it was a natural stove, the members of the Expedition cooked their
food.
One gets the best idea of the magnitude of the valley by comparing it
with our Yellowstone Park. The Katmai valley is thirty-two miles long,
about two miles wide and seventy square miles in area. In the
Yellowstone are four thousand hot springs and a hundred geysers
scattered over three thousand square miles. The geysers occur in
isolated basins the total area of which is hardly twenty miles. The
largest one, and it plays but seldom, shoots up a column about three
hundred feet high. Old Faithful, which is the only one the tourist can
ever be sure of seeing in action, is only a hundred feet high. In the
Alaskan valley, however, observe the contrast. _There are thousands of
vents in constant action._ Some of these ascend more than five thousand
feet into the air when conditions are good and when the valley is
wind-swept they creep along the ground for two or three miles! These
vents are not geysers. They are hot springs. Geysers can exist only
when the rock through which they break is sufficiently cool to permit
water to form. It is unlikely therefore that there will ever be geysers
here,--at least not for many centuries. The valley may gradually cool
so as to permit their formation. But it will be ages hence.
Prof. Griggs is emphatic in his belief that there is nothing known to
mankind with which "The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" can be compared.
I agree with him. Would that it were more accessible to the traveler
and that no tourist would return from a sojourn in Alaska without
seeing it! I shall never cease to be grateful that a fortunate
circumstance permitted me to obtain even so small a peep at it. Surely
nothing approaching it has been seen by man upon this earth. The
Expedition report states, among other interesting things, that the
water is so hot that the thermometer would not register it and that the
heat from the stones would char a piece of wood instantly!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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