Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
The most surprising thing in all this enclosure is a Gothic church
with two granite bell-towers, a parsonage, and a school,--all built
in other days by the missionaries and all of enormous size. But in
order to create this palace it was necessary to enlarge the limits of
the Imperial City and to include in them this Christian territory; so
the Empress gave the Lazarist Fathers more land and a more beautiful
church, erected at her own expense, where the missionaries and several
thousand converts endured all last summer the horrors of a four-months'
siege.
Like the systematic woman that she was, her Majesty utilized the church
and its dependencies for storing her reserves of all sorts, packed in
innumerable boxes. One could not imagine without having seen them what
an accumulation there could be of the strange, the marvellous, and the
preposterous in the reserve stock of bibelots belonging to an Empress
of China.
The Japanese were the first to forage there, then came the Cossacks,
and, lastly, the Germans, who left the place to us. At present the
church is in indescribable disorder,--boxes opened, their precious
contents scattered outside in rubbish heaps; there are streams of
broken china, cascades of enamel, ivory, and porcelain.
In the long glass galleries a similar state of things exists. My
comrade, who is charged with straightening out the chaos and making an
inventory, reminds me of that person who was shut up by an evil spirit
in a chamber filled with the feathers of all the birds of the woods and
compelled to sort them by species; those of the finch, the linnet, the
bullfinch together. However, he has already set about his difficult
task, and with Chinese workmen, under the direction of a few marines
and some African chasseurs, has already begun to clear things away.
* * * * *
Five metres from here, on the opposite shores of the Lake of the Lotus,
as I was retracing my steps last night, I found a second palace which
once belonged to the Empress, which is now ours also. In this palace,
which no one is occupying at the moment, I am authorized to set up my
work-room for a few days, so that I may have quiet and isolation.
It is called the Rotunda Palace. Exactly opposite the Marble Bridge,
it resembles a circular fortress, on which have been placed small
miradors,--little, fairy-like castles,--and the single low entrance is
guarded day and night by soldiers, whose orders are to admit no one.
When you have crossed the threshold of this citadel, and the guards
have closed the door after you, you penetrate into the most exquisite
solitude. An inclined plane leads you to a vast esplanade about twelve
metres above the ground, where the miradors--the little kiosks--seen
from below stand; there is a garden with old, old trees, a labyrinth of
rocks, and a large pagoda shining with gold and enamel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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