Beijing (China) -- Description and travel; Beijing (China) -- History -- Siege, 1900
The nine magnificent sealed doors at the back of the temple, shut
off the altars of nine emperors. They were good enough to break the
red wax seals for me and to destroy the fastenings at one of the
forbidden entrances, so that I might penetrate into one of the sacred
sanctuaries,--that of the great Emperor Kouang-Lu, who was in his glory
at the beginning of the eighteenth century. A serjeant has orders to
accompany me in this profanation, holding in his hand a lighted candle,
which seems to burn reluctantly here in the light cold air of the tomb.
The temple itself was quite dark, but here it was black night itself,
and it seemed as though dirt and cinders had been thrown about; the
dust that accumulates so endlessly in Pekin seems a sign of death and
decay. Passing from daylight, however dim, to the light of one small
candle that is lost in the shadows, one sees confusedly at first, and
there is a momentary hesitation, especially if the place is startling
in itself. I see before me a staircase rising to a sort of tabernacle,
which seems to be full of artistic creations of some unknown kind.
At both right and left, closed by complicated locks, are some severe
chests which I am permitted to examine. In their compartments and in
their double secret bottoms the sovereign's imperial seals have been
concealed by the hundreds,--heavy seals of onyx, jade, or gold struck
off for every occasion of his life and in commemoration of all the
acts of his reign; priceless relics which no one dared touch after his
obsequies, and which have lain there for twice one hundred years.
I go up into the tabernacle and the serjeant holds his candle before
the marvels there,--jade sceptres and vases, some of a peculiar and
exquisite workmanship in both dark and light jade, in cloisonné on
gold, or in plain solid gold. Behind the altar in an obscure position
a grand figure which I had not perceived followed me with an oblique
look that reached me through two curtains of yellow imperial silk,
whose folds were black with dust. It is a pale portrait of the defunct
Emperor,--a life-sized portrait, so obscure, as seen by the light of
our single wretched candle, as to seem like the reflection of a ghost
in a tarnished mirror. What a nameless sacrilege would our opening the
chests where his treasures were hidden seem to this dead man, nay, even
our presence in this most impenetrable of all places in an impenetrable
city!
When everything is carefully closed again, when the red seals have
been put back in place and the pale image of the Emperor returned
to silence, to its customary shadows, I hasten to get away from the
tomblike chill, to breathe the air again, to seek on the terrace some
of the autumn sunshine which filters through the cedar branches.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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