The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Vol. 1 (of 2)Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
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The Life and Letters of Ogier Ghiselin de Busbecq, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de
Busbecq, Ogier Ghislain de, 1522-1592
The Turks are passionately fond of flowers, and though somewhat
parsimonious in other matters, they do not hesitate to give several
aspres for a choice blossom. I, too, had to pay pretty dearly for these
nosegays, although they were nominally presents, for on each occasion
I had to pull out a few aspres as my acknowledgment of the gift. A man
who visits the Turks had better make up his mind to open his purse as
soon as he crosses their frontier, and not to shut it till he quits
the country; in the interval he must sow his money broadcast, and may
thank his stars if the seed proves fruitful. But even assuming that
he gets nothing else by his expenditure, he will find that there is
no other means of counteracting the dislike and prejudice which the
Turks entertain towards the rest of the world. Money is the charm
wherewith to lull these feelings in a Turk, and there is no other way
of mollifying him. But for this method of dealing with them, these
countries would be as inaccessible to foreigners as the lands which are
condemned (according to the popular belief) to unbroken solitude on
account of excessive heat or excessive cold.
Half way between Constantinople and Adrianople lies a little town
called Tchourlou, famous as the place where Selim was defeated by his
father, Bajazet. Selim,[109] who was only saved by the speed of his
horse Caraboulut (i.e. the dark cloud), fled to the Crimea, where his
father-in-law exercised supreme power.
Just before we reached Selimbria, a small town lying on the coast, we
saw some well-preserved traces of an ancient earthwork and ditch,
which they say were made in the days of the later Greek emperors, and
extended from the Sea of Marmora to the Danube.
These fortifications were intended to defend the land and property of
the people of Constantinople which lay within their defences, against
the inroads of barbarians. They tell of an old man in those days who
declared that the existence of these works did not so much protect what
was inside, as mark the surrender of the rest to the barbarians, and so
encourage them to attack, while it damped the spirit of the defenders.
At Selimbria we stopped awhile to enjoy the view over the calm sea and
pick up shells, while the waves rolled merrily on to the shore. We were
also attracted by the sight of dolphins sporting in the waters; and,
in addition to all these sights, we enjoyed the heat of that delicious
clime. I cannot tell you how warm and mild the air is in this charming
spot. As far as Tchourlou there was a certain amount of cold, and the
wind had a touch of the North about it; but on leaving Tchourlou the
air becomes extremely mild.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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