His project having succeeded thus far almost beyond his hopes, he
embarked on the 7th of August, 1749, at Stockholm, and sailed down the
Baltic, landing at various points on the coast of Sweden for the purpose
of examining the plants and other natural productions of the country.
The voyage down the Baltic was attended with storms; but the pleasure
imparted by the extraordinary features of the scenery, the sandy,
columnar mountains of Gothland, the dazzling peaks of Iceland, and the
gloomy beech forests of Malmo caused him to attend but little to the
inconvenience they occasioned. In traversing the German Ocean and the
English Channel, they approached so near our shores that the chalky
cliffs and hills which run along the coast were visible; and on entering
the Strait of Gibraltar, they discovered on the one hand the mountains
of Africa, bare of vegetation, and looking like prodigious heaps of
limestone, or moving sand; and on the other those of Spain, with
cloud-capped summits, and lighted up at night by numerous watchfires and
limekilns. The coasts of Sicily, of the Morea, of Candia were seen in
passing, and on the 15th of September they came to an anchor in the
harbour of Milo.
Though Hasselquist was by no means destitute of a relish for the
beauties of nature, he was not precisely travelling in search of the
picturesque. His affections were fixed upon those “children of the
spring,” as flowers are termed by an old poet, which in the country
where he now was long survive their parent; and was exceedingly
delighted, on landing, to observe that numerous plants were still in
flower, though others had already been deprived of their beauty by
autumn. Among the former were the autumnal dandelion, the anemone
coronaria, both white and blue, and the oleander, with a species of
rhamnus with small white flowers.
The harbour of Milo is almost wholly surrounded by high mountains, upon
one of which stand an ancient castle and village in a position
singularly picturesque. On arriving at the town, over a road formed of
flint and limestone, he was greatly struck by the air of poverty and
misery which everywhere appeared; the houses differed in nothing from
prisons, except that their inmates could go in and out when they
pleased; and all around were ruins of splendid edifices, which added to
their misery, by reminding them of the very different condition of their
ancestors. However, poor as they were, they continued to bring up
immense numbers of children, with which the whole town swarmed like a
beehive. The costume of the women was extraordinary. More cynical even
than the Spartan virgins, whose scanty tunic the reader may admire in
Mr. Hope’s Costume of the Ancients, the women of Milo went entirely
naked to the waist, from whence depended a short petticoat which was
very far from reaching the knee. The crown of the head was covered with
small pieces of linen, but the hair hung dishevelled to the girdle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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