Hasselquist could not, of course, omit while at Cairo to visit the
pyramids. The country about Gizeh, to which he proceeded by water, was
so fertile and so admirably cultivated, that it was an object of
perpetual admiration; and in winter the whole of this part of Egypt
appears, when contemplated from an eminence, to be nothing but one vast
sea of verdure, extending in every direction farther than the eye can
reach. On arriving in the neighbourhood of the pyramids, he was
hospitably entertained by an Arab sheikh, who was encamped there with
his tribe. Two kids were slain, and reduced to an admirable pilau; and
with a rough board for a table, a rush mat for a table-cloth, and their
fingers for spoons, the whole party made a frugal but wholesome supper.
It is necessary, says our traveller, that in such cases we should
accommodate ourselves to the ways of the people, which if we do, there
is no nation upon earth among whom we shall find so much friendship,
frankness, and benevolence as the Arabs.
Having passed the night with these hospitable Bedouins, he pushed on to
the pyramids over a plain covered with villages, and was soon standing
in wonder and admiration at the base of the principal of these gigantic
temples of Venus. When the effervescence of his astonishment had
somewhat subsided, he entered with his Arab guides into the interior,
which, no less than the external appearance, he found greatly to exceed
the most exaggerated idea he had formed of their prodigious grandeur
from descriptions or designs. After groping about for an hour and a half
by torchlight through those mysterious chambers sacred to the generative
power of nature, of which beauty has always been one of the principal
symbols, from the sting which its appearance infixes in the human soul,
he issued forth filled with enthusiasm, under the influence of which he
attempted to climb up to the apex of the temple. The sun, however, had
rendered the granite steps burning hot, so that when he had ascended
about half-way he began to imagine he was treading on fire, and
relinquished his design. On another occasion, during the inundation,
when he made a second attempt, a violent wind arose, and swept with so
much fury round the pyramids, that Hasselquist began to fear it might
convert him into a bird, and whirl him off to the Red Sea or Nubia, and
finally gave up his undertaking. The fact is, his bodily strength failed
him in both cases.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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