The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in EuropeWashington, Booker T.
History
The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in Europe
Washington, Booker T.
Poor -- Europe; Working class -- Europe
This method of distributing milk--namely, by driving the animal to
the front door and milking while you wait--has some advantages. It
makes it unnecessary to sterilize the milk, and adulteration becomes
impracticable. The disadvantage is that, in order to make this method
of milk delivery possible, the cow and the goat must become city
dwellers and live in the same narrow streets with the rest of the
population. Whatever may be true of the goat, however, I am sure that
the cow is not naturally adapted to city life, and where, as is true
in many instances, whole families are forced to crowd into one or
two rooms, the cow-stall is likely to be still more crowded. Under
these conditions I am sure that the average cow is going to be neither
healthy nor happy.
For my purposes it is convenient to divide the life of Naples into
three classes. There is the life of the main avenues or boulevards,
where one sees all that is charming in Neapolitan life. The buildings
are handsome, streets are filled with carriages, sidewalks are crowded
with handsomely dressed people. Occasionally one sees a barefooted
beggar asleep on the marble steps of some public building. Sometimes
one sees, as I did, a woman toiling up the long street side by side
with a donkey pulling a cart. There are a good many beggars, but even
they are cheerful, and they hold out their hands to you with a roguish
twinkle in their eyes that somehow charms the pennies out of your
pocket.
Then there is the life of the narrower streets, which stretch out in an
intricate network all over the older part of the city. Many of these
streets contain the homes as well as the workshops of the artisan
class. Others are filled with the petty traffic of hucksters and small
tradesmen. In one street you may find a long row of pushcarts, with
fish and vegetables, or strings of cheap meat dangling from cords,
surrounded by a crowd, chaffering and gesticulating--Neapolitan
bargain-hunters. In another street you will find, intermingled with
the little shops, skilled artisans with their benches pushed half
into the street, at work at their various tasks. Here you will see
a wood-carver at his open doorway, busily engaged in carving out an
elegant bit of furniture, while in the back of the shop his wife is
likely to be engaged in getting the midday meal. A little farther along
you may meet a goldsmith, a worker in iron or in copper. One is making
a piece of jewellery, the other is mending a kettle. In these streets
one sees, in fact, all the old handicrafts carried on in much the same
manner and apparently with the same skill that they were carried on
three hundred years ago.
Finally, there are the narrower, darker, dirtier streets which are
not picturesque and into which no ordinary traveller ventures. This
seldom-visited region was, however, the one in which I was particularly
interested, for I had come to Naples to see the people and to see the
worst.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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