The man in the street: Papers on American topics — John Shaqi
The man in the street: Papers on American topicsNicholson, Meredith
General
The man in the street: Papers on American topics
Nicholson, Meredith
American essays -- 20th century
Attempts to sneak the dressmaker’s bill under the
coffee-pot are fraught with peril; such concealments are unworthy of
American womanhood. Let the hour or half-hour at the breakfast table be
kept free of the taint of bargain and sale, a quiet vestibule of the
day, barred against importunate creditors.
As against the tendency, so destructive of good health and mental and
moral efficiency, to slight breakfast, the food manufacturers have set
themselves with praiseworthy determination to preserve and dignify the
meal. One has but to peruse the advertising pages of the periodicals
to learn of the many tempting preparations that are offered to grace
the breakfast table. The obtuse, inured to hasty snatches, nibbles,
and sips, are assisted to a proper appreciation of these preparations
by the most enchanting illustrations. The art of publicity has spent
itself lavishly to lure the world to an orderly and contemplative
breakfast with an infinite variety of cereals that have been subjected
to processes which make them a boon to mankind. When I hear of an
addition to the long list, I fly at once to the grocer to obtain one
of the crisp packages, and hurry home to deposit it with the cook
for early experiment. The adventurous sense is roused not only by the
seductive advertisement but by the neatness of the container, the ears
of corn or the wheat sheaf so vividly depicted on the wrapper, or the
contagious smile of a radiant child brandishing a spoon and demanding
more.
Only a slouchy and unimaginative housewife will repeat monotonously
a breakfast schedule. A wise rotation, a continual surprise in the
food offered, does much to brighten the table. The damnable iteration
of ham and eggs has cracked the pillars of many a happy home. There
should be no ground for cavil; the various items should not only be
well-chosen, but each dish should be fashioned as for a feast of high
ceremony. Gluttony is a grievous sin; breakfast, I repeat, should be a
spiritual repast. If fruit is all that the soul craves, well enough;
but let it be of paradisiacal perfection. If coffee and a roll satisfy
the stomach’s craving, let the one be clear and not so bitter as to
keep the imbiber’s heart protesting all day, and the other hot enough
to melt butter and of ethereal lightness. The egg is the most sinned
against of all foods. It would seem that no one could or would wantonly
ruin an egg, a thing so useful, so inoffensive; and yet the proper
cooking of an egg is one of the most difficult of all culinary arts.
Millions of eggs are ruined every year in American kitchens. Better
that the whole annual output should be cast into the sea than that one
egg should offend the eye and the palate of the expectant breakfaster.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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