The man in the street: Papers on American topicsNicholson, Meredith
General
The man in the street: Papers on American topics
Nicholson, Meredith
American essays -- 20th century
It grieves me to be obliged to confess that in hotels and on
dining-cars, particularly west of Pittsburgh, many of my fellow
citizens are weak before the temptation of hot cakes, drenched
in syrup. I have visited homes where the griddle is an implement
frequently invoked through the winter months, and I have at times,
in my own house, met the buckwheat cake and the syrup jug and meekly
fallen before their combined assault; but the sight of a man eating hot
cakes on a flying train, after a night in a sleeper, fills me with a
sense of desolation. Verily it is not alone the drama that the tired
business man has brought to low estate!
Sausage and buckwheat cakes have never appealed to me as an inevitable
combination like ham and eggs. Beefsteak and onions at the breakfast
hour are only for those who expect to devote the remainder of the day
to crime or wood-chopping. The scent in itself is not the incense for
rosy-fingered morn; and steak at breakfast, particularly in these
times of perpendicular prices, speaks for vulgar display rather than
generosity.
The history of breakfast, the many forms that it has known, the
customs of various tribes and nations, assist little in any attempt to
re-establish the meal in public confidence. Plato may have done his
loftiest thinking on an empty stomach; I incline to the belief that
Sophocles was at all times a light breakfaster; Horace must regret
that he passed into the Elysian Fields without knowing the refreshing
qualities of a grapefruit. If my post-mortem terminal were less
problematical, I should like to carry him a grapefruit--a specimen
not chilled to death in cold storage--and divide it with him, perhaps
adding a splash of Falernian for memory’s sake. But the habits of the
good and great of olden times are not of the slightest importance
to us of twentieth-century America. Still, not to ignore wholly the
familiar literary associations suggested by my subject, Samuel Rogers
and his weakness for entertaining at breakfast shall have honorable
mention. Rogers’s breakfasts, one of his contemporaries hinted, were a
cunning test of the fitness of the guests to be promoted to the host’s
dinner table--a process I should have reversed, on the theory that the
qualifications for breakfast guests are far more exacting than those
for a dinner company. We have testimony that Rogers’s breakfasts,
informal and with every one at ease, were much more successful than his
dinners. Wordsworth, Coleridge, Byron and Moore, Southey and Macaulay,
the Duke of Wellington and Lord John Russell were fellows to make a
lively breakfast table. At one of these functions Coleridge talked for
three hours on poetry, an occasion on which, we may assume, the variety
or quality of the food didn’t matter greatly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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