The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Most musically named is Gracia, approached by rail or tramway, where rich
citizens have their orange and lemon gardens, their chateaux and villas,
and where religious houses abound. In this delightful suburban retreat
alone no less than six nunneries may be counted; somber prison-like
buildings, with tiny barred windows, indicating the abode of cloistered
nuns of ascetic orders. That of the Order of St. Domingo has been recently
founded. The house looks precisely like a prison. Here also are several
congregations of the other sex--the Missionaries of the Sacred Heart, the
Fathers of San Filipe, and others.
Gracia may be called the Hampstead of Barcelona. Hardly a house but
possesses its garden. Above the high walls trail gorgeous creepers and
datura, whilst through the iron gates we obtain glimpses of dahlias in
full splendor, roses red and white, and above these the glossy-leaved
orange and lemon trees with their ripening fruit. The pleasantest suburb
of Barcelona is well worthy of its name. As Sarria is approached, the
scenery becomes more rural, and under the brilliant November sunshine
reminds the traveller of the East, the square, white, low-roofed houses
rising amid olive and palm trees. The aloes and prickly pears on the waste
ground again and again recall Algeria. Here are vast stretches of
vegetable gardens and vineyards supplying the city markets, and standing
in their own grounds on sunny hill-sides, the quintas or country houses of
rich citizens and grandees.
From the little town of Sarria--hardly as yet to be called suburban--a
glorious view is obtained of city, port, and sea. The narrow dusty
streets, with their close-shuttered houses, have a sleepy look; yet Sarria
possesses one of the largest cotton-mills in Spain, several thousand hands
being employed by one firm. The branch railway ends at Sarria. Here
tourists and holiday-makers alight; the hardy pedestrian to reach the
summit of Mont Tibidaho on foot--a matter of two hours or so--the less
enterprising, to accept one of the covered cars awaiting excursionists
outside the station. Mont Tibidaho is the favorite holiday ground of the
citizens. Even in November numerous pleasure parties are sure to be found
here, and the large restaurants indicate the extent of summer patronage.
On the breezy heights round about are the sumptuous mansions of nobles and
merchant princes; whilst down below are numerous picturesque valleys,
notably that of San Cugat. The stranger fortunate enough to obtain
admission will find himself in the kind of fairyland described by Tennyson
in his "Haroun-al-Raschid," Owen Meredith in "The Siege of
Constantinople," or Gayangos in his delightful translation of the
"Chronicles of Al-Makkari." Marble courts, crystal fountains, magnificent
baths, mosaic pavements, statuary, tapestries, aviaries, rare exotics,
gold and silver plate, are now combined with all modern appliances of
comfort. A sojourn in one of the well-appointed hotels will suffice to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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