It is my firm belief that there is an intimate relationship between
the stomach and the ear, the saucepan and the crotchet, the mysteries
of Mrs. Rorer and the mysteries of Mme. Marchesi. It has even occurred
to me that one of the reasons our American composers are so barren in
ideas is because as a race we are not interested in cooking and
eating. Those countries in which music plays the greater part in the
national life are precisely those which are the most interested in the
culinary art. The food of Italy, the cooking, is celebrated; every
peasant in that sunny land sings, and the voices of some Italians have
reverberated around the world. The very melodies of Verdi and Rossini
are inextricably twined in our minds around memories of _ravioli_ and
_zabaglione_. _Vesti la Giubba_ is _spaghetti_. The composers of these
melodies and their interpreters alike cooked, ate, and drank with joy,
and so they composed and sang with joy too. Men with indigestion may
be able to write novels, but they cannot compose great music.... The
Germans spend more time eating than the people of any other country
(at least they did once). It is small occasion for wonder, therefore,
that they produce so many musicians. They are always eating, mammoth
plates heaped high with Bavarian cabbage, _Koenigsberger Klopps_,
_Hasenpfeffer_, noodles, sauerkraut, _Wiener Schnitzel_ ... drinking
seidels of beer. They escort sausages with them to the opera. All the
women have their skirts honeycombed with capacious pockets, in which
they carry substantial lunches to eat while Isolde is deceiving King
Mark. Why, the very principle of German music is based on a theory of
well-fed auditors. The voluptuous scores of Richard Wagner, Richard
Strauss, Max Schillings and Co. were not written for skinny,
ill-nourished wights. Even Beethoven demands flesh and bone of his
hearers. The music of Bach is directly aimed against the doctrine of
asceticism. "The German capacity for feeling emotion in music has
developed to the same extent as the capacity of the German stomach for
containing food," writes Ernest Newman, "but in neither the one case
nor the other has there been a corresponding development in refinement
of perceptions. German sentimental music is not quite as gross as
German food and German feeding, but it comes very near to it
sometimes.... 'The Germans do not taste,' said Montaigne, 'they gulp.'
As with their food, so with the emotions of their music. So long as
they get them in sufficient mass, of the traditional quality, and with
the traditional pungent seasoning, they are content to leave piquancy
and variety of effect to others."... Once in Munich in a second
storey window of the Bayerischebank I saw a small boy, about ten years
old, sitting outside on the sill, washing the panes of glass. Opposite
him on the same sill a dachshund reposed on her paws, regarding her
master affectionately. Between the two stood a half-filled toby of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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