The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and BeautyLady of distinction, active 19th century
History
The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and Beauty
Lady of distinction, active 19th century
Beauty, Personal; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History -- 19th century; Etiquette -- Great Britain
Vile as these meretricious arts are, they are not less dangerous to
health than to morals. The constant pressure of such hard substances as
whalebone, steel, &c. upon so susceptible a part as the bosom, is very
likely, in the course of a very short time, to produce all the horrid
consequences of abscesses, cancers, &c.: on their miseries I need not
to descant.
On the _long stay_ I shall now make a few remarks, arising from the
observations I have been enabled to make on the ladies of various ages
and figures whom I have known wear it. To the woman whose waning charms
set in an exuberance of flesh, perhaps the support of this adventitious
aid is an advantage. But in that case its stiffening should rather
be cord quilted in the lining, or very thin whalebone, than either
steel or iron. In all situations, the boddice should be flexible to
the motion of the body and the undulations in the shape; and it should
never be _felt_ to _press_ upon any part.
Thus far we may tolerate the adoption of this buckram suit for elderly,
or excessively _embonpoint_ ladies; but for the _growing_ girl (whom, I
am sorry to say, mothers not unfrequently imprison in these machines,)
it is both unrequired and mischievous.
Before nature has completed her work in the perfection of the youthful
figure, she is checked in her progress by the impediment which
the valves, bands, &c. of the _long stay_ throw in her way. Those
finely-rounded points which mark the distinction and the grace of the
female form, and which the artist, enamored of beauty, delights to
delineate with the nicest accuracy, are, by the constant pressure of
these _stays_, rendered indistinct, and in a short time are entirely
destroyed.
Let, then, the _long stay_ be restricted to the too abundant mass
of fattening matronhood; so may art restrain the excesses, not of
nature, but of disease. Unwieldly flesh was never yet seen in a
perfectly healthy person. It generally arises either from intemperance
overloading the functions of life, or dissipation decomposing them.
Let the _padded corset_ rectify the defects of the deformed; but where
nature has given the outline of a well-constructed form, forbear to
traverse her designs. Youth should be left to spring up, unconfined,
like the young cedar; and when the hand of man, or accident, does not
distort the pliant stem, it will grow erect and firm, spreading its
beautiful and cheerful shade over the heads of its planters.
OF THE DETAIL OF DRESS.
“We have run
Through every change, that fancy at the loom
Exhausted has had genius to supply;
And, studious of mutation still, discard
A real elegance a little used
For monstrous novelty and strange disguise.”
COWPER.
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