No. 2, Rue Mazarin, behind the Maison de l’Infante, was occupied by Wellington when he had his headquarters in the town from November 17, 1813, to February 20, 1814, after defeating Soult at the Battle of the Nivelle. In this time of inactivity, while preparations were being made for investing Bayonne, the life in St. Jean de Luz is thus sketched by Colonel Hill James: ‘A gay little town was St. Jean de Luz in those days, when a pack of English foxhounds successfully drew the neighbouring woods, followed by a brilliant field of the boldest spirits of the day. Lord Wellington encouraged the sport by constantly appearing at the meets, wearing his favourite Salisbury Hunt livery of sky-blue with black cape. The Basque inhabitants flocked to see this novel sport, undismayed by their warlike surroundings; for the manly, honest, and straightforward conduct of the strangers had reassured them, and they had returned to their homes to court the presence and protection of the British Army, which paid with a liberal hand in good coin for all it required.’ As long ago as 1520 Basque ships sailed from St. Jean de Luz to fish off the coast of Newfoundland, and as pioneers in this enterprise one can feel the fullest sympathy for the tenacity with which the French have held to their fishery rights on that part of the American coast. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries St. Jean prospered exceedingly, although in 1588 the Spaniards had succeeded in burning the town, in revenge for the many things they had suffered at the hands of the Basque corsairs who lived at the mouth of the Nivelle. When the Duke of Buckingham was endeavouring to assist the Huguenots of La Rochelle in their desperate resistance to the huge forces brought against it by Richelieu, St. Jean de Luz sent fifty ships to the help of the garrison of the Île de Rhé, which had been blockaded by the English fleet, and Buckingham, having failed in his final assault, was forced to sail homewards and leave the Protestant town to fight the whole forces of France. It held out for fifteen months, capitulating in October, 1628. The pretty village of Urrugne, with its curious classic church, stands close to the foot-hills of the mountain chain which almost touches the sea at this point. The curves of the road give beautiful views over the sea--a lovely blue flecked with breaking waves--and the green valleys dotted with white houses between the bare, buff-coloured mountain ridges. BÉHOBIE (the Franco-Spanish frontier village)