The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
It is a small town with two narrow, shadowy streets running parallel and
quite close together, with a collection of new houses with bright red
roofs, and some cloth and paper mills scattered promiscuously outside
the old nucleus. The Church of Santa Maria, passed on the right, has an
elaborately ornamental classic front, and the interior decorated with
local marble.
At the village of Andoain there is a fork where the turning to the left
is taken, and a beautiful road follows a river to Lascarte, where one
goes to the right for San Sebastian, passing a number of factories, and
then coming out to a delicious view of great green waves foaming on to
the rocks of the bay of
SAN SEBASTIAN
It is a fashionable seaside town, with wide modern streets, containing
little to interest the visitor beyond the smartly dressed people, the
shops, and the chances of seeing the youthful King of Spain or other
members of European royal families. The picturesque bay, with the rocky
Isle of Santa Clara and the mountainous coast-line, make San Sebastian a
most attractive place. The season is from June to October, when inland
towns are being baked under a fierce sun.
The old town, besieged in 1813 by Wellington’s army, and occupying a
peninsula between the mouth of the Urumea and the bay, had had its
fortifications removed by 1865, so that there is little to remind one of
the siege of Napoleonic times. All who go there should, however, read a
detailed account of the investment which Wellington entrusted to General
Sir Thomas Graham. The garrison, under General Rey, made such a
successful resistance to the first assault that the allied forces were
obliged to retire, but a few weeks later Graham returned, and finally
took the citadel on Mont Orgullo. The English and Spanish soldiers were
accused of reckless sacking and plundering when they captured San
Sebastian, but it is difficult to find the truth of the matter. One
thing that is definitely known is the fact that Wellington complained so
much of the plundering of the Spanish troops that he even sent them back
from the front as he approached the Adour.
The citadel on Mont Orgullo cannot be entered without permission, but
anyone may climb up the hill to the English cemetery, where the British
officers who fell in the attacks on the town were buried.
The Church of Santa Maria was built in 1743, and San Vicente, rebuilt in
1507, has a reredos of gilded wood dated 1584.
[Illustration: THE LIMESTONE GORGE IN THE PYRENEES, BETWEEN PAMPLONA AND
TOLOSA.]
A large modern bull-ring is conspicuous on the hill on the east side of
the river. It is highly interesting to visit this twentieth-century
amphitheatre, and to see the elaborately fitted operating-room where the
wounded toreador, a victim of Spanish decadence, can receive immediate
treatment. There is also a small chapel in which the bull’s antagonist
can receive the Sacrament before he goes out to the dangerous encounter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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