The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
On Sunday afternoon we dropped anchor safely in a sheltered part of
Porto Bello Bay known as Aco Cove. Our previous halts, the town of
Pernambuco, the coral bay at Santa Cruz, the rocky basin of Cape Frio,
and the world-famed harbour of Rio de Janeiro, bore little resemblance
to each other, but they had one point in common, that they were all
obviously South American. Porto Bello had nothing South American about
it save its very unoriginal Spanish name; it might, as far as general
appearance went, have been a loch imported straight from the west coast
of Scotland: the accent of our Glasgow engineer became unconsciously
more homelike, as he remarked that it was “just like the scenery near
Oban,” and to add to the illusion the weather, though warm, was a “wee
bit saft,” with the nip in the air associated with Scotland in August.
The town of Porto Bello itself lies at the foot of the bay. It will be
found marked in the atlas of the infallible Stieler, but it is nothing
more than a hamlet, consisting of a few small houses, with a church and
one little store; there was no inn visible, but it is apparently
connected with the outside world by telegraph or telephone. Shanties,
surrounded with banana groves, wandered up the hillsides or clustered
round such sandy coves as Aco; some were made of wattle and daub, others
of wooden planks roofed with banana leaves or rough red tiles. We made
friends with a family who occupied a cottage near the stream which
supplied our water, and some of the party, a grandfather, father, and
small daughter, came off on their own initiative to pay us a visit on
board. They brought presents of eggs and molasses, and three special
shells as an offering for me. The gifts which we on our side found were
most appreciated, both here and elsewhere, were tobacco, sweets, and
ships’ biscuits; the last were specially prized, being often preferred
to money. We showed our visitors over the vessel, and expected that such
fittings as electric light would produce a mild sensation, but it was
proved as usual that the eye can only take in what it has sufficient
knowledge to appreciate. The greatest success was achieved by the supply
of carpenters’ tools, which excited much admiration, while the
pier-glass in my cabin came in a poor second. A rather embarrassing
situation arose when the old man, who was getting a little imbecile,
found the yacht so attractive that he sat down in the deck-house and
declined to depart.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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