The Norwich Road: An East Anglian HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Norwich Road
WIDFORD almost immediately introduces the explorer to Moulsham
(originally the "mole's home"), itself own brother--but a very
out-at-elbows brother--to Chelmsford. If we wished to put the wind
between our gentility and the somewhat fusty purlieu of Moulsham, we
should turn to the left at the fork of the roads, half a mile short of
the town, and so, proceeding along the "new London road," come into
Chelmsford, half way down the High Street. Being, however, intent
rather upon old roads than new, we will e'en endure the half-mile
length of shabby, untidy street, and thus come bumpily into Chelmsford,
the county town of Essex, the Metropolitan City of Calves, over the
hunchbacked and narrow stone bridge across the Chelmer, the successor,
at an interval of seven hundred years or so, of the original bridge
built by Maurice, Bishop of London. That is a huge slice of time, but
it was too late, even in Norman days, for the town to change its name
from Chelmers_ford_ to something more appropriate when the ford was
thus superseded.
Straight ahead over this bridge goes the High Street of the town,
the view closed by the Shire Hall and the church; the Norwich Road,
however, turning abruptly to the right, by the Conduit, and refusing
to make acquaintance with the town. It is the Conduit that is seen in
this illustration of the High Street, its architecture scarce improved
by the placing of an electric lamp, alleged to be ornamental, over its
cupola.
[Illustration: THE BRIDGE: ENTRANCE TO CHELMSFORD.]
Chelmsford church and the Shire Hall, seen at the end of this view,
spoil one another, the Hall almost entirely hiding the church when
looking down the High Street, and the dignified Perpendicular exterior
of the church putting the clumsy architecture of the Hall to shame,
as a pagan upstart. The Shire Hall has its terrors for some, but
its architecture, alleged to be classic, alone concerns the passing
stranger, who feels so concerned by sight of it that he accordingly
passes the quicker. A captured Russian gun and the seated bronze effigy
of a native, a bygone Lord Chief Justice (who looks whimsically like
an old apple-woman crouching over her basket, and drops green coppery
stains over his nice stone pedestal) keep one another company in the
open space fronting this building.
[Illustration: THE CONDUIT, CHELMSFORD.]
The L.C.J. in question was Nicholas Tindal, whose career came to a
close in 1806. The monument was erected in 1850, "to preserve for all
time the image of a judge whose administration of English law, directed
by serene wisdom, assisted by purest love of justice, endeared by
unwearied kindness, and graced by the most lucid style, will be held by
his country in undying remembrance." His birthplace could hardly have
said more than that.
[Illustration: TINDAL'S STATUE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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