The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
Ill fared the unsuspecting burgess who met any of these sinners on the way
to plenary indulgence, for they would, not unlikely, murder him for the
sake of anything valuable he carried; or, out of high spirits and the
sheer fun of the thing, cudgel him into a jelly; arguing, doubtless, that
as they were presently to turn over a new leaf, it mattered little how
soiled was the old one. Drunkenness and crime, immorality, obscenity, and
licence of the grossest kind were, in fact, the inevitable accompaniments
of pilgrimage.
[Illustration: THE “STAR,” ALFRISTON.]
Although East Anglia was in the old days more plentifully supplied with
great monastic houses than any other district in England, the destruction
wrought in later centuries has left all that part singularly poor in the
architectural remains of them: and even the once-necessary guest-houses
and hostels have shared the common fate. That charming miniature little
house, the “Green Dragon” at Wymondham, in Norfolk, may, however, as
tradition asserts, have once been a pilgrims’ inn dependent upon the great
Benedictine Abbey, whose gaunt towers, now a portion of the parish church,
rise behind its peaked roofs.
[Illustration: CARVING AT THE “STAR,” ALFRISTON.]
The beautiful little Sussex village of Alfriston--whose name, by the way,
in the local shibboleth, is “Arlston”--a rustic gem not so well known as
it deserves, possesses a very fine pilgrims’ inn, the “Star,” a relic of
old days when the bones of St. Richard of Chichester led many a foot-sore
penitent across the downs to Chichester, in quest of a clean spiritual
bill of health. Finely carved woodwork is a distinguishing feature of this
inn, whose roof, too, has character of its own, in the heavy slabs of
stone that do duty for slates, and bear witness to the exceptional
strength of the roof-tree that has sustained them all these centuries. The
demoniac-looking figure seen on the left-hand of the illustration is not,
as might perhaps at first sight be supposed, a mediæval effigy of Old
Nick, or an imported South Sea Islander’s god, but the figure-head of some
forgotten ship of the seventeenth century, wrecked on the neighbouring
coast, off Cuckmere Haven. Ancient carvings still ornament the wood-work
of the three upper projecting windows, the one particularly noticeable
specimen being a variant of the George and Dragon legend, where the saint,
with a mouth like a potato, no nose to speak of, and a chignon, is seen
unexpectedly on foot, thrusting his lance into the mouth of the dragon,
who appears to be receiving it with every mark of enjoyment, which the
additional face he is furnished with, in his tail, does not seem to share.
The left foot of the saint has been chipped off. All the exterior woodwork
has been very highly varnished and painted in glaring colours, from the
groups under the windows to the green monkey and green bear contending on
the angle-post for the possession of a green trident.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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